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RossoRacer

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I've had my '98 Suburban K2500 454ci for nearly two years, and just found this site when doing one of my occasional searches for a third row seat for it. Maybe I should look a bit closer into figuring out why it won't always start before getting too excited about a new seat though, haha. Replacing the starter didn't help, but replacing the battery and doing a top-post conversion seemed to help for a bit. However, now it's once more not wanting to start, making me wonder if somehow it doesn't like the cold right now, or if there's a loose wire between the battery and starter.

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RossoRacer

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No, haven't had much time to do alot with it today, though that did cross my mind for a few minutes earlier. It did take a second or two longer to start last time I drove it a few days ago. But a few months ago, before the starter was replaced, I tried jump-starting it with no result, but then the next day it fired up in about one second flat when a friend came over to check it out. Radio and all the lights work fine, but it just won't always send power to the starter. Either it cranks and fires up, or it tries to play dead but all the other electronics still work.
 

movietvet

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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

By "not wanting to start" and what you have said, I am going to make the assumption that you mean it will not turn over/crank at times. Correct? Because, cranking over and then not starting is a whole other scenario.

Check for voltage drop problems on the battery cables. Look for corrosion inside the cables insulation. Were the cables replaced with the top post conversion? You did not say. Like @kennythewelder said, what is the alternator output? Is it constant? What is the output when you load it? Inspect ground contacts in the circuit. When it will not start, is it a real slow crank or no crank at all?

Sorry for some of my questions. You posted more info just before I posted my questions.
 

RossoRacer

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When it cranks, it starts, but it won't always crank. Had a problem last year with it cranking but not starting, so now it has a brand new fuel pump installed at the local Chevy dealer. Cables weren't replaced with the post conversion, I just bought the one Odyssey battery that had top posts on it from the three that the Autozone website said would fit, and some conversion connectors that let me connect the existing wires and their existing connections(which I had already scrubbed reasonably clean in a previous attempt at a fix) to the top post.
 

fancyTBI

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Welcome to the forum. We’ve got a good bunch of members here. Really like your Suburban! Great color combo. We will get your issue sorted out with help from you and other members.
 

movietvet

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When it cranks, it starts, but it won't always crank. Had a problem last year with it cranking but not starting, so now it has a brand new fuel pump installed at the local Chevy dealer. Cables weren't replaced with the post conversion, I just bought the one Odyssey battery that had top posts on it from the three that the Autozone website said would fit, and some conversion connectors that let me connect the existing wires and their existing connections(which I had already scrubbed reasonably clean in a previous attempt at a fix) to the top post.
Cables voltage drop? If unsure how to do, check out numerous you tube videos. Alternator out put, constant? Under load? Conversion connectors clean cables to install, but corrosion further down the cables?
 

kennythewelder

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A lot of people bash this test, and I know it should not be performed on a newer vehicle, but I have been doing it for years. Get the vehicle started. With the engine running, disconnect the positive battery cable, from the battery. If the truck keeps running, the alternator is working. If it dies out. The alternator is not working. If it does not die, the next would be to look for a periodic draw.
 
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