So from the original harness you leave the:
- Oil pressure sensor
- CTS for the gauge
- Alternator wiring +main power wire from alternator
- and the 95 starter wires will attach to the new motors starter
(A) Oil press,CTS,Alt wires flipped up out of the way. And all these are JUST for your cluster. The new engine/harness could care less about these sensors, they are just for your gauges.
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I should of asked if you are reworking your own harness or not but i did my own following the http://www.lt1swap.com/ instructions and the Coolant temp sensor in the ls harness for the ls computer just plugs into the ls engine, no different than plugging in the injectors, coil packs, MAF etc..
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The issue is adapting the original single wire Coolant temp sensor for your gauge to the ls engine.
- Either install a 3 wire temp sensor in place of the 2 wire sensor in the above picture so that the single wire for your gauge and the 2 wire for the computer share the same source/sensor (i don't know the part number for this sensor)
- or on the right rear cylinder head there is a threaded plug you can take out and screw in your 95's single wire coolant temp sensor.
Autometer 5284 adapter kit will let you install you 95 Oil pressure sender and you coolant temp sensors into the LS motor
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-5284
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The orange wire is actually 2 orange wires condensed into one. these 2 wires supply batt constant to the LS computer. so for these just find a spot in you 95 fuse box that is hot always. If you rework your own harness using the lt1swap.com instructions your going to remove many wires from it that you don't need and you will be left with what you do need and the instructions are pretty good as to where they go or how they must be wired in.
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This isnt a very good pic but you can see a bundle of pink wires: these all need power when the key is on/during cranking
The 2 orange below it get power at all times
And there will be another handful of wires such at tach output,Vehicle speed and the data wire for the DLC/OBD2 connector( you will need to get a OBD2 connector)
Thanks for the info, lets go through it. I am reworking the LS harness per lt1swap.com. Brendan has some really great info there. Im actually gonna send him a bottle of fine Colorado ***** as a "thank you". Im reworking the Suburbans harness too, but I guess thats obvious. ;-p
I knew the ECU didnt need the oil pressure sensor (OPS), but I didnt know it didnt need the CTS or the alternator info. The OPS, I just intended on getting a three wire OPS that would fit in the stock spot without any adapters. If I cannot find that sensor, Ill just buy the Autometer part. Thanks for the part number! After that I was going to take the OPS wires and connect them to the GMT400 harness at the bulkhead in the firewall on the drivers side just below the brake booster. I read the pinout and didnt see a spot for it. Which wires do I connect the OPS wires to?
Sounds pretty straight forward for the CTS. I guess I will go the route of installing the old CTS in the right side port. I believe that will connect to a yellow wire (B8 from the red GMT400 ECU plug)?
The alternator wire, I cut it out of the GMT400 harness and am using the LS harnesses alternator plug. This is per Brendans instructions on lt1swap.com, so I believe it is right.
You answered my question that I had regarding the orange and pink wires. In the GMT400 pinout, it called pink "Ignition Feed", and orange as "Battery Feed".
Again, much appreciation for your help. You're info is helping me get my project finished before the snow starts flying!