Getting rid of the mushy brake pedal; share your tips

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redfishsc

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I've owned 4 GMT400 trucks. Two pickups from 1990 and two Suburbans from 1999.
The 1990 ones always had good brakes but I prefer the 4 wheel ABS of the later 90's models.

Those later models are PLAGUED with mushy brakes. Threads everywhere about what to do about it.

Here is what I've discovered.


1) If you can bleed the brakes and get a firm pedal that only lasts for a few months, you probably have a caliper (or perhaps wheel cylinder) letting air in.

2) (Pertaining to vehicles with 4 wheel ABS)..... If you can bleed a 55 gallon drum of fluid through all 4 brakes and still get a mushy pedal, you likely have air in your ABS. Pay someone else to use a scanner to do an "Auto-bleed" which will cycle the ABS system on a few times to piss out all the air trapped in it.


One of my 99s had mushy brakes for years until I had it auto-bled. The pedal was WONDERFULLY firm for maybe 3 months. It was a glorious 3 months, then they got mushy again. I discovered that I had a caliper that was allowing air into the system over time. I swapped the calipers (which functioned just fine otherwise) for new ones, problem solved.

Brake pedal stayed plenty firm for about 2 years until a dumbass pulled out in front of me and I had to stand my truck on its face to keep from T-boning him. That blew a wheel cylinder which obviously made the pedal feel like a slice of pound cake.

The other I had 99 always had a nice firm pedal. But then again I never needed to do anything other than change pads/shoes until I sold it, never needed to open the fluid system.
 

b454rat

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I had to put new calipers on my 98 Tahoe. The pads were bout done, and the sliders were rusted inside the caliper. I read on here bout using 1 ton calipers, so went to the parts store. Luckily they had both there, also listed a police version for the Tahoe, which just happens to be the same part number as the 1 ton. I used cheap pads cause rotors need to be replaced soon, but goes on fine, just need to open up the fingers on the back of the pad that goes to the caliper. But it made a huge difference. I push maybe an inch maybe less, never measured but the brakes are right there. I did a gravity bleed, worked fine. Eventually I'll take the ABS off, hate it...
 

Supercharged111

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I deleted my ABS on my 1500. Unplugged it the first day I owned it, was absolutely worthless in the snow. Tahoe calipers are the 8600 GVW calipers I do believe, duallies got the biggest. Gravity bleeding, to my knowledge, is the best. It just takes forever.
 

Pinger

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I've been bleeding mine and it's not a mushy pedal that bothers me but the pedal sinking when stationary with the engine running. Never goes all the way to the floor and never happens when moving - the truck stops long before it gets to that. I mentioned this on another thread and was told to remove the drums for a look. Found leaking cylinders and replaced them but still the problem persists.

When it first appeared (after calliper work but without breaking into hydraulics) it was so bad I didn't drive for a few days and it came alright on it's own. I pushed the bleed valve on the ABS unit and a little spurt of fluid appeared and the pedal was the better for it. I've tried that again (with pedal pressure this time) and no fluid comes out. Just bled the fronts and rears and still it's the same. When I replaced the rear cylinders (and pipes prior to that) the fluid level never dropped in the reservoir enough to let in air.
A mystery. Where's Columbo when you need him?
 

redfishsc

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I've been bleeding mine and it's not a mushy pedal that bothers me but the pedal sinking when stationary with the engine running. Never goes all the way to the floor and never happens when moving - the truck stops long before it gets to that. I mentioned this on another thread and was told to remove the drums for a look. Found leaking cylinders and replaced them but still the problem persists.

When it first appeared (after calliper work but without breaking into hydraulics) it was so bad I didn't drive for a few days and it came alright on it's own. I pushed the bleed valve on the ABS unit and a little spurt of fluid appeared and the pedal was the better for it. I've tried that again (with pedal pressure this time) and no fluid comes out. Just bled the fronts and rears and still it's the same. When I replaced the rear cylinders (and pipes prior to that) the fluid level never dropped in the reservoir enough to let in air.
A mystery. Where's Columbo when you need him?



Sounds to me like your master cylinder is worn, allowing fluid to bypass the piston.
 

Pinger

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Sounds to me like your master cylinder is worn, allowing fluid to bypass the piston.

I kind of suspected the same - but for one thing.
I've had a master cylinder fail on me (on another car) and the most obvious symptom there was when braking to a halt - at the point just prior to stopping and the inertia is all but gone (being related to the square of the speed) and it pulls up sharper for the same pedal pressure - it wouldn't. Just like the brake being released (which in essence was what was happening) it wouldn't pull up for the final part of the stop. There's none of that with my Suburban.
Not quite the same as saying the master cylinder is in prefect health though.
 
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