Fuel pump

[swervin]

Is there plastic melted around one of the pins on the relay. I had a problem that was intermittent a few years back on my 96 C3500 7.4L. I discovered it that the plug on the power center under the hood where the relay plugs in had some melted plastic around one pin. The pin itself had expanded causing a poor connection. I used a very pointed pair of needle nosed pliers to close the pin. Haven't had any trouble since. The same relay is used for the A/C also

I cant remember but if that was the case that would mean it probably shorted- fuse would be blown. Also changing relays wouldnt help with that atleast that is what i would imagine

 

[7thdarkangel]

Did you ever check the wiring at the pump? I had my ground wire break and cause a bad pump symptom. Ended up cutting the wire and re-grounded the pump and everything was good to go.

 

[swervin]

Did you ever check the wiring at the pump? I had my ground wire break and cause a bad pump symptom. Ended up cutting the wire and re-grounded the pump and everything was good to go.

Only way i can check better then i did is by dropping the tank, which im in the process of doing right now just working 12 hour days lately so i can barely find time to get it done. Then im going to try and spend as little as possible replacing whats broken but by the looks of it under there i should replace every fuel line and just about the entire truck... soo rusty, where do i stop!

 

[Stephen]

Thats probably a good idea! I think im going to see if i can remove the bolts holding the box on fairly easily, and borrow my boss' mini excavator to lift it off then back on after! Haha then i can actually see whats going on and i know putting the box back on is alot easier then reinstalling the tank if i can use the excavator (My 90 has baling wire and zap straps holding the tank up...gave up trying to get the proper tank strap back on). And then i can halfass clean the frame up quick too while its off.

No need to completely remove the bed. On my 96 C3500 SRW I tilted the bed by removing the bolts on the driver's side and loosened the bolts on the passenger side. I removed the left rear wheel and used a bottle jack resting on the leaf spring to raise/tilt the bed enough to access the tank. You will need to disconnect the ground wires for the lights no matter which method you use. I used 4X4 wood blocks between the bed & the frame for safety. On a side note , when I lowered the bed it was then that I noticed that a bed bolt was missing on the driver's side just above the front bracket for the spring. It was never installed. I looked down into the bracket and there were 2 bolts. Came that way from the actory.

 

[swervin]

So it was the fuel pump itself. I ended up dropping the tank after quickly giving up on removing the rusty, frozen bolts holding the box down, and everyone kept saying the easiest/fastest way is to just drop it.... now after a few days of rolling around in gravel, getting my eyes filled with rust and dirt, cramming myself in awkward positions and having no room to move around, i can almost guarentee its way easier to remove the box bolts, jack up the box, shove wooden 4x4 block under it then just access it through the wheel well...basically just like "stephen" said ^