Frame interchange question

[Tuck]

So I got rear ended pretty hard just left of center in my '97 K2500 reg cab long bed. Frame got folded up pretty good up to the rear axle.

It's a northern truck so pulling it may be a waste of time and money so I'd like to piece in a rear section just behind the front spring perch.

What frames would be a suitable donor? It's my understanding that 1/2 and 3/4 tons are the same, but I don't know whether the 2WDs are or not. What about a Suburban?

I can find dozens of suitable reg cab/8 ft bed in 2wd but rarely a 4wd that isn't rotted away behi9nd the rea axle.

Anyone know or have Hollander interchange knowledge?


thanks, Tuck

 

[inscarguy]

in most cases unless GM has a sectioning procedure for the later frames, it is not wise to section it in. most of the hydroformed GM frames can be sectioned with a kit. the older frames do not have this. if you replace the rear section you are going to weaken the area around the weld and made the welded area stronger. for the work involved and what has to be done you are better off getting a whole southern frame and just changing the whole thing.

 

[Tuck]

Understood, but in either case, sectioning or replacing the whole thing. What are donor chassis? It's a regular cab, 8' bed K2500

Thanks for the reply!

 

[poncho62]

For the cost of a 97, I would find a similar truck in decent condition and use yours for parts.

 

[Tech-GeeK1500]

The only difference between 2WD frames and 4WD frames for our GMT400's is the front cab mount forward, essentially just the front suspension module. The 2WD trucks have coil buckets built into the frame rail to locate the coil springs, the 4WD have a more straight section since they utilize torsion bars (as I'm sure you're aware of). Essentially all the GMT400 primary frame rails regardless of 2WD or 4WD, 1500, 2500, or 3500 are the same dimensions. The only difference I've ever noted in person is that the thickness of the material goes up slightly with duty range of the truck. This applies to the front cab mount rearward, where the C-channel under the mid and rear of truck, meet the previously mention 2WD or 4WD front frame module. Tahoes and Suburbans have a slightly different kick up angle under the rear section.

 

[df2x4]

The only difference between 2WD frames and 4WD frames for our GMT400's is the front cab mount forward, essentially just the front suspension module. The 2WD trucks have coil buckets built into the frame rail to locate the coil springs, the 4WD have a more straight section since they utilize torsion bars (as I'm sure you're aware of). Essentially all the GMT400 primary frame rails regardless of 2WD or 4WD, 1500, 2500, or 3500 are the same dimensions. The only difference I've ever noted in person is that the thickness of the material goes up slightly with duty range of the truck. This applies to the front cab mount rearward, where the C-channel under the mid and rear of truck, meet the previously mention 2WD or 4WD front frame module. Tahoes and Suburbans have a slightly different kick up angle under the rear section.

Why is it that my 2WD and 4WD frames look completely different then? On my 2WD truck you can barely see any frame from the side, on my 4WD Suburban you can see literally 4" of frame rail running below the body.

 

[Tech-GeeK1500]

I do believe the 2WD truck bodies may sit a bit lower, using shorter body mounts. As far as I know the dimensions of the frames themselves are the same, or at least very close. Of course I could be wrong. It's been a long time since I've been under a 2WD.

 

[Tuck]

For the cost of a 97, I would find a similar truck in decent condition and use yours for parts.

I understand that sentiment, and I considered it. But I cherry picked this truck back in '07 and since it's been customized to meet my appearance and towing needs including a 383 vortec upgrade and 0411 PCM swap.

I've sourced and bought a Texas 8' bed and tailgate ,new bumper, class IV hitch etc. and I'm still under $900 so far. My southern connection is slow at finding a frame since he mostly deals with sheetmetal, but after that it's just paint match and labor and that'll be around $2K.

$3200 doesn't buy anything close to where my truck is currently(short of the wreck) , and then I'd have all the time swapping the drivetrain over and swapping my damn near perfect interior too. Time is something I just can't spare right now.

When I looked for a comparable truck it was either a 1500 or a short bed or something I didn't want. And anything close was $8000 or more, and justifiably so. Clean 3/4 4WD in the GMT400's are getting very hard to find.

 

[Chewy1576]

I have a '92 K2500 RCLB in Northern Utah that will be heading for the scrap yard as soon as I swap the front diff and rear axle. Body and frame are in great shape but the interior is trashed. Name your price and come get it!

 

[inscarguy]

i was speaking to one of my customers who runs a body shop. he just restored his 94 k1500 reg cab shortbed. he got a new gm frame for it. he ended up spending 1300.00 for it. they gave him a good price because gm wants to get rid of all the older frames. check a chevy dealer and maybe you can get a good deal on one. I priced mine(ex cab sb) and I could get it for 1800.00.