error code 0430

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NacIK

aka Dirty Hoe
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I have a simular problem. The SES light and code P0420 come on intermentantly, which is bank 1 low effecency. I have a graphing scanner (DashDyno SPD, which is nice!) but I really don't know what to look for. When I compare the two rear sensors, both lines are close to identical in pattern.
I do have a few other symptoms of it not running well:
The power I used to have is all but completely gone
I use about a gallon of coolant every 2 weeks (intake gasket?)
The exaust smells like fuel
There is a popping noise coming from around the left header

If anyone is interested at looking at some data from my scanner after a few runs I could record for a few runs and post the data on here. Just let me know what to record and I can make it happen. Thanks.
 
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The bank 1 sensor 1 (driverside front) and bank 1 sensor 2 (driverside back) should be different from each other. Bank 2 sensor 1 (passenger front) and bank 2 sensor 2 (pass. rear) should also be different from each other. If they are the same your cats are bad.
Both banks sensor #1 can be similar to each other and both banks sensor #2 can be similar to each other.
The front sensors read how rich or lean the engine is running. The back sensors check the catalyst efficiency, by comparing readings with the front sensors. So if the front and backs are the same it means that the cat isn't doing anything.

As far as the coolant thing. Your guess is as good as mine. My coolant was pretty low today (none in the overflow and needed almost a 1/2 gallon in the radiator. I havent seen any leaks. So I'm hoping its not the intake gasket :/
What are the symptoms of that?
My truck doesnt run real rough. It smokes a decent amount of whitish smoke until the engine warms up a bit, but its been cold and wet here, so every car is smoking a lot, and its not thick white, just lots of condensation I think. Theres no coolant in the oil or visa-versa.
 

CodyB

Grease Monkey
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I did a dirty ass trick, When I gutted my cats I modified the signal going to my computer from each post-cat o2 sensors with nothing more than a pair of capacitors, a pair of resistors and some butt connectors and heat shrink tubing. you cannot tell that they're modified in any way, it all hid up under the flex braid that covers the wire. http://atomicinternet.homeip.net/teamneco/listHOW.asp?RecordID=8 Skip down to building MIL Eliminators. If you have factory color wires the Black=Purple, the two brown are for the heater and the grey-ish white is grey... Simple enough right? BUT you need to gut the cats or weld in strait pipe. Same as tuning them out, but they're still "there" to the computer. Don't know how well this would pass smog, or if it would at all. I don't have to worry about that in my state... The Natural State has no emissions enforcement, sounds kinda backwards huh?
 

NacIK

aka Dirty Hoe
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Wow! Thanks for that link. I probably won't use it on my truck, but it is nice to have in my tool kit.
 
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Cody that is awesome. I had kinda wondered about DIY MIL eliminators for a few years... but never really gave it anymore thought or looked into it. I'm thinking this sounds way cheaper than buying a new set of cats for my truck.

This wont work if they actually analyze the readings of your emissions in your state.

But in SE Wisc. we have emissions, for only ODBII (1996+) cars/lt. trucks...and I'm pretty sure they just plug in to the DLC and check for MIL codes instead of using a "sniffer/analyzer" So I'm thinking/hoping that this will work. And if it doesnt pass emissions... then I just take the cap. & resistor out and put in a wire and then shell out the cash for a new set of cats....
 
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Sorry man I didn't forget to look at the rest of the info for you. I let a bud borrow my books and I can't get ahold of him to finish reading about the open loops. I'm gonna kill him over 2 damn books.
 
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