Engine sluggish vibration at acceleration

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Bricksack

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Well was going to just to make it easuer to get to but akso smell gas so was gonna check my injectors for leaks

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96-1500

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Well was going to just to make it easuer to get to but akso smell gas so was gonna check my injectors for leaks

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You shouldn't need to do that to get to the bolt. Just get a universal adapter for 1/4" drive to get to the screws, or a ratchet, or stubby screwdriver.

You're probably smelling gas because you aren't burning it where you clearly are having fire issues.

Just my 2 cents
 

Bricksack

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This is true . Didnt think bout that one. Thanks. Also I was able to get a slightly larger screw to seed in and hold. Now cap is tight just have to test now

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This is true . Didnt think bout that one. Thanks. Also I was able to get a slightly larger screw to seed in and hold. Now cap is tight just have to test now

No problem man, be sure to let us know how it turns out. Any more questions, hit us up.
 

Bricksack

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Alright cap on tight chabged plugs and wires now still vibrating bad. Small ticking coming from motor notbsure if its a knock or not. It literally feels like the idle goes up and down but its staying at 700 rpm. Gonna go up to advance see if there is any codes showing. Its walking distance from me.

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Bricksack

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At steady foot on peddle it feels normal then loose all power and it jumps bank and forth . Idles fine the ty. . Could it be a bad injector . I have had the ole 454 slow start. Cranks for a minute before turning over?
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Bricksack

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6 codes. O2 sensors I know due to my exhaust .
C0226 abs.
P1810
P0161
C0221
C0237
P0141

Cant upload anymore pictures from tapatalk.

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Bricksack

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Ok changed rotor and cap. Cranked and back fired. Still running very rough and rich now. Shooting gas out ifbthe tail pipes. Also have little oil on plugs

Any ideas?

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Enginebuilder

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Backfiring after a cap and rotor change screams wrong firing order. Double check your spark plug wires against this routing diagram:
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Make sure none of your spark plug wires are touching each other, and that they are clear from other objects in the engine bay. A pack of wire separators from the parts store is cheap insurance against cross-fire.

Once you are sure that all spark plug wires are connected and routed properly, double check all of your vacuum and electrical connections. Pay close attention to the ground straps, and replace any that are corroded.
 

twomanymontes

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I agree about the back fire. Recheck your firing order.

You have a MAP sensor code [P1810], make sure you have peoper engine vacuum at the sensor. IF there is little to no vacuum, the computer thinks it's under a severe load. Thus the running rich and causing a hesitation. The vacuum ports can get plugged with carbon and restrict vacuum.

The O2 Heater code [P0141], you will need to check for power and ground to the sensor. Bank 1 Sensor 2 is on the driver's side bank, behind the Catalytic Convertor. I'm not sure if your truck has 1 or 2 cats. If you have only 1 cat, then it's the only downstream sensor. Don't remember what the wire colors are off the top of my head, but the 2 thicker wires go to the heater. Disconnect the sensor, Put a test light looping the 2 wires and start the truck, if the light turns on bright, the sensor heating element is open, replace the sensor. If not start tracing the wiring back, something is open or shorted.

Hope this helps
 
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