Engine Running Like crap but there are no codes

[Big RED Burban]

hello i just bought a 1995 chyene 2500 eclb 350 tbi three days ago for $500 (great deal) and it needed the valves adjusted on the drivers side head i adjusted them this morning and when i went to start it it ran like crap in park horrible idle (if you can call it that) wouldnt rev without stumbling and in gear it shakes the whole truck and looks like it wants to jump out of the engine bay and chase me around the yard nothing has changed except adjusting the valves what the H#!! HAPPENED please if this has happened to anyone else HELP ME

 

[Big D]

how did you adjust the valves?

 

[magimerlin]

^^x2

sent from what use to be a great nation...

 

[Big RED Burban]

put it at tdc on compresion stroke and tighened till the pushrods stopped turning then another half turn like the book says

 

[magimerlin]

Ok well here's the thing...... all the tbi motors have hydraulic lifters.. if there is a need to tighten/adjust a stock motors rocker (as you can not adjust the valves themselves) something is wrong... which could be one of many things... bent pushrod(s), lifter(s) failing and a few other things.. by the sounds of it they are now to tight and are binging up a bit...

sent from what use to be a great nation...

 

[Big RED Burban]

just pulled the spark plugs and all 8 are pich black they werent like that 3 days ago the reason the valves were out of adjustment is the guy i bought it from is not mechanically inclined and he had some of his buddys (monkeys) work on it and for some reason the felt the need to losen all of the roker arms on the drivers side head any idea on why the spark plugs would all be fouled? colud it be from carbon build up? the engine has 253000 miles on it

 

[Big D]

put it at tdc on compresion stroke and tighened till the pushrods stopped turning then another half turn like the book says

Did you put it TDC on each cylinder and made adjustments? Is the cam Stock?

theres a 100 ways to do it, I was taught to Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.
tighten/loosen the rocker arm til the pushrod is at zero lash meaning you cant wiggle it up or down between the lifter and the rocker arm or some people spin the pushrod with there fingers and tighten/loosen the rocker til they feel a slight resistance and then tighten the rocker another 1/4 to full turn depending on your application.

then You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the same intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters are at the base circle of the cam and that there is no additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point.


what worries me is you said "tighened till the pushrods stopped turning" thats way to tight.

 

[Big RED Burban]

thank ya'll for all your help found the problem all 8 of the spark plugs fouled because the previouse owner put the wrong heat range plugs in it. i swear this thing was worked on by monkeys

 

[Big RED Burban]

by "stoped turning" i meant until they stoped turning freely (felt slight resistance) sorry for the confusion Thanks for the advice

 

[OlSmokie]

I adjust the lifters the same as Big D, but some people just don't have the feel for when the pushrod actually seats, and they keep going until the lifter plunger bottoms out.
If you are not absolutely sure, get someone who has done it before to help. I used to own a cylinder head rebuilding shop and I have done hundreds, but more times than not, I've had to set up customers valves even though they "did it exactly like I told them".