EFI or Carb

[PlayingWithTBI]

I wasn't sure if TBI could support Nitrous was the main reason I went carbureted

Check out the EBL Flash-II, it supports boost and N2O wet systems

EBL_Flash

 

[AuroraGirl]

The ONLY thing wrong with an Edelbrock is its propensity to vapor lock. They're easy to tune, they hold a tune, and you don't have to tune for performance or economy, you can have your cake and eat it too.

Regulator, a SBC with a mechanical edelbrock fuel pump, and a reutnr line functioning are great ways to do this
Then also, the powerblast upgrade nozzle things
Properly adjusting the carb
and then proper timing

 

[Supercharged111]

Regulator, a SBC with a mechanical edelbrock fuel pump, and a reutnr line functioning are great ways to do this
Then also, the powerblast upgrade nozzle things
Properly adjusting the carb
and then proper timing

Seeing how mine had no return fitting on the carb, I don't see how this would have been feasible. A phenolic block may have helped, but that's about all I can think of.

 

[Schurkey]

Regulator, a SBC with a mechanical edelbrock fuel pump, and a reutnr line functioning are great ways to do this

Seeing how mine had no return fitting on the carb, I don't see how this would have been feasible. A phenolic block may have helped, but that's about all I can think of.

It's the mechanical fuel pump, or the pressure regulator--not the carb--that has the return port.

Fuel pumps sometimes have a "vapor return" port--restricted to perhaps .030 or .060; intended to pass vapor while not passing much liquid fuel. It is, of course, the mechanical fuel pump that vapor-locks, not the carb. The mechanical pump functions by reducing pressure in the "suction" tubing back to the gas tank. Reduce pressure plus engine-compartment heat lead to fuel boiling and thus vapor-locking the fuel pump.

Pressure regulators may bypass as much liquid fuel as needed to reduce pressure to the set-point.

The difference is that a vapor-return typically uses 1/4" tubing, while a return-style regulator should use plumbing as large on the return side as the supply side--at idle, very little fuel is used, almost all of it goes right back to the gas tank. Too-small plumbing on the return side can make it impossible to reduce pressure as much as desired.

 

[Supercharged111]

It's the mechanical fuel pump, or the pressure regulator--not the carb--that has the return port.

Fuel pumps sometimes have a "vapor return" port--restricted to perhaps .030 or .060; intended to pass vapor while not passing much liquid fuel. It is, of course, the mechanical fuel pump that vapor-locks, not the carb. The mechanical pump functions by reducing pressure in the "suction" tubing back to the gas tank. Reduce pressure plus engine-compartment heat lead to fuel boiling and thus vapor-locking the fuel pump.

Pressure regulators may bypass as much liquid fuel as needed to reduce pressure to the set-point.

The difference is that a vapor-return typically uses 1/4" tubing, while a return-style regulator should use plumbing as large on the return side as the supply side--at idle, very little fuel is used, almost all of it goes right back to the gas tank. Too-small plumbing on the return side can make it impossible to reduce pressure as much as desired.

I had an intake pump with a regulator on the fender. I'd always wished there was a way to keep the fuel moving inside the carb itself the way it does in a fuel rail. I also know I'm not the only one who had fuel boil inside an Edelbrock carb. I ended up EFI swapping that car and sold off the carb stuff.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I had an intake pump with a regulator on the fender. I'd always wished there was a way to keep the fuel moving inside the carb itself the way it does in a fuel rail. I also know I'm not the only one who had fuel boil inside an Edelbrock carb. I ended up EFI swapping that car and sold off the carb stuff.

a phenolic spacer, a carb heat shield, a cold air intake(a air cleaner with duct to the outside engine bay air/inner fender/core support etc, a electric fan kick on after turn off, insulated gas lines, routed well, return line if mechanical pump, regulator, proper evaporative emissions function, and less ethanol gas or 100% gas gas would be some ways

Also heat shielding exhaust/wraping can help too.

At that point tho, you could just have swapped a factory EFI or about bought aftermarket EFI, so its not something you should plan for if you are looking at cost/investment of time as a factor as reason
If a truck had ******* wiring or just breaks apart, i would go carb simply because where i live and what i could do with what i have, but if money werent object, new efi would be cool and have native controls for the 4l60e or 4l80e

 

[AuroraGirl]

ALSO On a carb application, heat crossover, thats a big one, you would want to restrict it and maybe even block it if you had another means for winter warm up like EFE heater gasket(LOL) or warm climate

 

[Joe Guldan]

I had my throttle body bored to 46MM and had Brian at Harris Custom Fuel Injection do my chip, Great guy, easy to work with, I'm very happy with my 355, lots of power. I'm putting it on the chassis next month.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Brian at Harris Custom Fuel Injection do my chip, Great guy, easy to work with, I'm very happy with my 355, lots of power.

AKA TBI Chips. FWIU he retired a while back due to health reasons. At least he mentioned it to me back in 2018. Good to hear you're happy, I'll bet you can get more out of it with a proper tune, which involves data logging, tuning, more data logging, tuning, rinse and repeat. Using a WBO2 will get you even better results. I gained ~2 seconds 0-60 and 1/4 mile tuning my own with TunerPro RT and a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket and SST 27SF512 chips in my 7747. Then, got it even better with a WBO2 and the EBL Flash-II ECM. I still have his chip sitting in my junk drawer

 

[JMiller]

Maybe in the 60's this was true, but not anymore.

True...with boost. Unboosted, you don't get a whole lot more. 355's might squeeze out 400 but you are going to pound 5 or 600 out of it. 383 you might get 450 to 500 but still not 600. Boosted, it just depends what you can afford. 1,000 hp is simple these days.