Direct Drive to Gear Reduction Starter reuse bolts? - 97 C2500 5.7

[GeforceXtreme]

Hey Guys. I currently have a Direct Drive starter in my 97 C2500 with the 5.7. I am having an issue that it cranks really slow or doesn't fire over when the truck is hot. Instead of swapping in another Direct Drive starter, can I swap in a one of those smaller Gear Reduction Starters? If yes, can I reuse the starter bolts from the old one or do I need to buy different starter bolts? Being I don't think this new one comes with them.

I was thinking of picking up this starter https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-337-1022-Professional-Starter/dp/B007QBT0WA to swap into my truck.

Also it seems that the prior owner must have snapped the power wire connector going to the starter power lead. Well they replaced the wire with a tiny one. I am going to run a new replacement power wire but what gauge wire should I use? I think I have 4 gauge wire but that maybe overkill and hard to work with down there?

 

[GeforceXtreme]

Are these the starter bolts I would have to get to use the smaller mini starter on my truck?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12338064/reviews/?sortReviews=Newest

 

[LSUfan71]

I would suggest new ones: http://www.gmt400.com/threads/broken-starter-bolts.36011/

 

[GeforceXtreme]

I would suggest new ones: http://www.gmt400.com/threads/broken-starter-bolts.36011/

Thanks. Yes I did wind up ordering that smaller GM starter and as well as 2 new starter bolts. Hope to install it this weekend.

I am going to run a new 4 gauge wire from the battery directly to the starter. Being the original must have broken at some point and the prior owner replaced the end connecting to the starter with a tiny gauge wire. 4 Gauge big enough?

 

[LSUfan71]

Hmm, I dunno. Mine's still intact so I haven't had to research that.

 

[GeforceXtreme]

Hmm, I dunno. Mine's still intact so I haven't had to research that.

I sized it up and I think a 4 gauge is close to what was stock. I hope it is being I have tons of that gauge wire hah. I mean heck its better then the possible like 10 gauge or smaller wire that is feeding it now!

 

[LSUfan71]

I'm reading that 4 gauge is proper for battery-to-solenoid. Maybe larger (2 gauge) if your battery is in a remote location (ie trunk). Good luck.

 

[GeforceXtreme]

I'm reading that 4 gauge is proper for battery-to-solenoid. Maybe larger (2 gauge) if your battery is in a remote location (ie trunk). Good luck.

Thanks for the confirmation. Battery is in stock location under the hood. So sounds like the 4 gauge will be good to use then.

 

[michael hurd]

4 gauge copper ( not copper clad aluminum ) would be sufficient for the current draw expected, allowing for less voltage drop.

Keep in mind the jacket materials when changing wire in a hot engine compartment.

GPT and neoprene jackets might be acceptable for temporary use.

Best to use a cross linked polyethylene jacket material. Higher cost, but OE type quality. Most 'car stereo' wire is not very good for engine compartment use.

A bit of a write up on different jacket characteristics.

https://www.belden.com/docs/upload/Insulations-Jackets.pdf

https://www.kayjayco.com/tech125CWire.htm

More information:
https://www.kayjayco.com/wiretables.htm
https://www.kayjayco.com/wiretables.htm

 

[GeforceXtreme]

Hey guys. I wanted to let you know it all worked out. The new mini starter works great and it starts so much faster. Actually the wire going to the starter from the battery was the stock gauge wire. The small wire I saw before removing the started was I guess the trigger wire to fire the starter over with the key. But the ring terminal from the battery to the starter was breaking off. So I just ran a new power feed and all is good. Funny enough the starter bolts I removed were the same length as the new ones I bought. However they were of course is much better shape then the old ones. So I guess it was good idea I replaced those anyway. Amazing the weight difference from the old starter to the new one.