Bunch of lift questions.

[Nitrofreak]

#1 if I have a shifter on the floor do I have "autotrac" and need the new drive shaft?
#2 can you still get cepek lifts? And. Or importantly can I get one into Canada?
#3 I want to use torsion bar replicator when I do lift, will I then use the stOck torsion bar locating crossmember instead of the dropped one included in 4-6" kits?
#4 how bad is my truck gonna look with a 6" RCX or Cepeck lift paired with 235/85? I love my tires now, they are the most affordable, best working tires I believe I could own. They work amazing in deep snow because they chew instead of "half" float and cause the truck to slide around. Id like to keep them. I have seen what my father's truck does on 33/12.5 and I'm not convinced at all, other than they do look bigger and cooler

 

[Wagonbacker9]

#1 autotrack is push button, so no.
#2 Only if you find one used (I think there was recently one on here, maybe still for sale)
#3 over my head thus far... someone else...
#4 pretty bad, I'd say. thats a tiny tire for that much lift. Most guys lift to clear tires... why are you lifting?

 

[90chevstepside]

3. Yes. It'll use the stock torsion bar crossmember.

 

[Nitrofreak]

I'm lifting because its fonna live in the bush, originally I wanted to do one of the 2-3 in kits. Just enough to give it good, late model Ford stance so I can go most anywhere. But I think what I've heard about these kits is you lift enOugh to creat front end problems but you don't actually get enough kit to solve them. Then, you must got to a 4" kit, which is a proper full drop, and for the extra 40$ you might as well get the six? I would consider getting the six and running it without the AAL and not crank it at all ( like a 4" kit). I might be way off here? You experienced guys should let me know. It is the first Chevy I've owned, and first vehicle too

 

[Wagonbacker9]

Well here is the thing... you will have made it so the body and running gear of the truck further from the bush, but the crossmembers, axles, and whatnot will still be at the EXACT same ground clearance. So, I guess the way I see it, you have achieved little more than raising the center of gravity of your truck. (And made it look really strange)

If you want to stay on a narrower tire there are (limited) options, but personally if I were you I'd still go with a 12.5x35, which is pretty standard on a 4-6" lift

 

[90chevstepside]

^^^^^^ I love this reply ^^^^^^

 

[90chevstepside]

Also, if you only run the block and completely decrank the front end, it won't look as lifted, and the tires might look somewhat better. Here's a 6" kit cranked on 33/12.5/17 tires for reference.

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And the same 6" kit cranked on 265/70/16 tires

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[whiplash473]

i will say at least you did a little snoopin around and got your thoughts together first nitrofreak.....this makes people less irritable and in turn you get better responses

 

[LoudnLifted88]

Also, if you only run the block and completely decrank the front end, it won't look as lifted, and the tires might look somewhat better. Here's a 6" kit cranked on 33/12.5/17 tires for reference.

You must be registered for see images attach

And the same 6" kit cranked on 265/70/16 tires

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Nitrofreak]

Yes. I knew someone would come at me with the diff hight reference.... By the way my 235/85's are supposed to be damn near 32's so they are close to 33's.lol (self justificatition) they will look a little pinner at just over 8" wide though. I have never experienced the need for more diff height for ruts, if the snow is that deep I'm usually dropping my sled off the tailgate however, it is typical to drag my bumpers and running boards ALOT! The BC Forest service up here in Canada love to deactivate every bloody road I want to hunt or fish off of, that's why I want to Lift it. it also seems typical for a "waterbar" across a road up here to be 3-4 feet deep? But thanks for all the help guys. Any advice for when I do lift my rig? That you guys have experienced?