Brake problems 96 chevy z71

[davidfite1978]

I replaced the pads/rotors/calipers on the front brakes earlier this year. Rears are pretty old/rusty/crappy looking. Everything's been fine until now.

Yesterday I got a trailer load of gravel. When I went to turn onto my street (off a major highway - 55mph), I couldn't stop enough to make the turn. I figured it was because I was going downhill with a load of gravel. Well, today I noticed that my brakes go pretty much too the floor now. Very soft and not nearly as much braking power as I had before. I've read through some threads and some say it could be a cylinder, hole in a line, etc...

I was just wondering if you guys have had this problem before and what order I should check things off the list. I'm comfortable doing this kind of work but haven't changed out lines before and haven't worked on rears at all.

Also - forgot to mention that the check engine light came on when I was towing uphill. I've had this happen before and it was a misfire. Going to have it checked today at advanced auto. Not sure if anything brake related would have caused it...

 

[Scrufdog]

start with basic checks.

-Hose from manifold to brake booster
-Brake fluid level, low probably means you have a leak
-Wet calipers, hoses, puddles under truck, inside rear wheels wet... leak
-Looks at front rotors and pads for cracks
-If nothing looks bad from there, pull drums and check in there for leaks, broken parts, etc...

The first 4 can be checked in about 10 minutes without taking anything apart. The last one will take maybe 1/2 hour for both sides.

 

[davidfite1978]

Thanks scrufdog. Sounds like a good list to start with.

When I changed out the front brakes, I just remembered that my buddy who helped me (used to be a mechanic) said the little valve or whatever it's called on the rears, that you open to bleed them, were in bad shape. If for some reason I need to bleed, and I can't get those to operate, what part/piece will I be looking at to replace to get that valve replaced?

 

[MinnesotaChevy]

For the rear it would be the wheel cylinders what you should do it take apart the rear brake (tire and drum to start) and clean/ inspect the pads and inside of the drum. Make sure you check the Wheel cylinder for leaks around the rubber piston housings I did a full overhaul on my 94 and I ended of replacing the brake line from the master cylinder to the rear such mine was so rusted If you have any more questions just ask me I'll be glad to help.

 

[sewlow]

Wheel cylinders.

 

[IOWNJUNK]

Your wheel cylinders probably havent applied the rear brake shoes in years, until you got on the brakes hard with that load. Brake parts for these trucks are stupid cheap so just replace everything. As soon as you pull the drum off take a few pics so you can remember how it all goes back together. Assuming its put together correctly already. They arent hard, get a cheap brake spring tool so you don't lose an eye doing the vise grip screwdriver trick.

 

[davidfite1978]

Thanks for the tips guys. I am hoping to have enough time tonight to start inspecting everything and see what happens. I'll post back my findings tomorrow.

 

[davidfite1978]

Assuming none of the lines are leaking anywhere, and I ended up replacing the rears, what all do I need to buy? When I did the fronts I replaced calipers, pads, rotors. What are all the components of the rears?

 

[Scrufdog]

If nothing is broken, shoes at minimum, drums might be ok with a light sanding, if they don't have any grooves worn into them. The optimal rear brake job would be shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, hardware, and rear brake flex hose that's out by the axle.

 

[Keepinitoldskool]

Make sure to install the shoes in the correct direction. A good set of shoes will have a leading and trailing edge.

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