I would like to say that there is a quick and easy method, but if the paint peels in one location and looks like it's decent in another, it will peel later on. If you would like to test that theory, get yourself some 2" wide masking tape.... and stick it down in spots that aren't peeled. When you pull up on the tape, the paint will come off with it.
You may be able to salvage some of the grey elpo primer instead of taking it to bare but I would suggest going to bare metal since you are most of the way there. The prep work shouldn't change from a daily driver to a show quality paint at all... there aren't many steps you can skimp.
If you decide to take it on yourself, beware that it is going to be time consuming, and it won't necessarily be cheap. I prefer chemical strippers to grinding away for hours on end with 80 grit on an orbital, however they contain some very nasty substances ( methylene chloride ) and will burn your skin in seconds if you get it on exposed flesh. You must have water nearby when using paint strippers, glasses or goggles, nitrile gloves, respirator.
Blasting to remove the paint creates a lot of heat and can lead to a lot of warped sheetmetal, as well as trapped abrasive grit in areas where it should never be... I don't care how good the masking job is it creeps in doors, inside double panels, etc.
The main difference in prep for a show paint and a daily driver is the grit that you finish sanding in, the quality of materials used, and the extra time blocking down / filling every panel to perfection, plus painting the vehicle apart and then very carefully assembling it. Wetsanding and polishing would be the next step to ensure a perfect finish.
There are some primer surfacers that can be used as a wet-on-wet sealer, IE: spray the primer, once the correct flash times have been observed, you can literally shoot the finish coat over it.
Have you got a budget in mind?
