BAll Joint- Tie Rod- CV axle Replacement

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93 K1500

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I had to do this over the weekend and thought I would post this for everyone that has to change out all this.Sorry I did not have all the pics in the end my phone died. I will put them in next week when i do the other side
Parts Needed to start-Ball Joints upper and lower, tie rods inner and outer+adjusting sleeve, New Pads, Two Beers
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BLAH BLAH BLAh get the tire off if you cant jack up the truck and remove the tire Do not go any further
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Now at this point have someone hold the brake so you can loosen the spindle nut 1-3/8" I skipped this step and youll see why. So after the spindle nut is loose remove the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way.
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Pull rotor off and remove the dust shield.
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Remove the cotter pins at all joints and loosen all nuts so they only are held on by a thread or two.Insert pickle fork at the inner tie rod first removing the inner joint first does not hammer the center link as bad becouse the out joint takes some of the blow. Use a BFH and beat the pickfork till the joint seperates. repeat at the out joint.DO NOT LOOSEN the Adjusting Sleeve.
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At this point remove the Wheelbearing assembly three 15mm bolts then remove the spindle nut ,gently pry it loose so you dont damage the spines on the cv axle
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This is when I found out the nut was bigger than my old truck and not had to wait for my wife to go get the right size at the store:nono:
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Now use pickle fork to seperate the upper ball joint from the spindle after it is seperated cut or grind down the top of th rivits only, then use pickle fork to seperate the joint from the control arm( when prying take care not to bend or deform the rivits this will make it much harder to remove them later.
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Now seperate the lower ball joint- remove the nut and slide the spindal assebly off-dont hit the splines from the axle. NOW the FUN part shoot the rivits with liquid wrench and wait a min. then cut the top rivits on the lower ball joint the heat from cutting will help the liquid wrench penitrate. I ended up having to drill ALL the rivits with a 3/8" bit. Then used a old nut driver held with vise grips and a BFH to pound then rest of the rivits out. For the upper rivits place about a 1' rolled bar in between the lower and upper arm this makes the upper arm more solid when pounding out the rivits. BE CALM they will come out later than sooner. AT this point INSPECT THE CV AXLE FOR ANY CRACKS IN THE BOOTS OR SPLINE DAMAGE.:uhoh2:Now simply bolt the new lower and upper joints in with care not to over tighten the bolts. replace the spindle attach the bottom joint first then the top. Now take the old tie rods and measure from center to center of the joints. Assemble the new tie rod pieces and make them the same measurement center to center, reinstall the inner joint first then the outer. Replace the wheel Bearing, And spindle washer and nut. Change the brake pads and reinstall the caliper.Have someone hold the brake, torq the spindle nut. Now grease all the new joints -Not to much dont pop the new joints. put the tire on and take it for a spin.
 
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Swims350

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on mine I took the spindle nut loose with the tire on the ground and retorqued the same way, it works well. Also I never messed with the dust sheild I left it on. I had to change the knuckle on mine cause the caliper bolt ear snapped.
 

the big blue bus

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ive got my new ball joints and idler arm on way. may have to do tie rods too. this kinda helped. why does the wheel nut have to be taken off? couldnt i just take wheel off and unbolt the bottome control arm from spindel replace that one rebolt and go to the top one? sorry if im asking a stupid question.
 

dirtridinz71

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ive got my new ball joints and idler arm on way. may have to do tie rods too. this kinda helped. why does the wheel nut have to be taken off? couldnt i just take wheel off and unbolt the bottome control arm from spindel replace that one rebolt and go to the top one? sorry if im asking a stupid question.

You need to remove the cv axle so that the spindle will drop enough to seperate and come off the lower balljoint.

I've never removed the dust shield either when doing balljoints. No need to remove the wheel bearing either, unless of course it needs replaced.
 

93 K1500

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[QUOTEI've never removed the dust shield either when doing balljoints. No need to remove the wheel bearing either, unless of course it needs replaced. ][/QUOTE]

I was rushed when I entering this thread--- I removed the dust shield because it was bent and rubbing so it was being replaced and yes the wheel bearing was being changed also.
Swims350- Yes i agree, you can remove the spindle nut with the tire on I would have if I had the socket- I didnt want to confuse anyone when they could still see it in the pics.
BIG BLUE- Liquid wrench is youre best friend here. and dont forget to check the cv boot. I got everything done took my test drive and then found the split in the lower boot. Thats enough to make even a Nun say GOD DAM***
 
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