7 pin trailer outlet under truck wiring?

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Hi,

I’ve been trying to find information on what wires I should be connecting and seems I’m getting lots of different opinions so I’m hoping you guys can steer me in the right direction. I have a 2000 k3500 Sierra 6.5 diesel.

What I’m trying to do: hard wire a 7 pin male trailer plug into the factory harness under the cab of the truck in front of the fuel tank. My plan is to have a double ended female extension cable running from under the truck cab, up over the front of the box into a male 7 pin connector into the front of the truck camper similar to the one found under the cab.

Trailer harness has wires black, blue, green, red, white, brown and yellow. I have wired in the plug connector to match the google search image since this seems to match how the camper male plug was wired previously. Camper doesn't have a cable, only a plug.

Factory harness I’m trying to hard wire into has wires: black, blue, big guage faded red, white, grey, black with white-stripe, light green, dark green, purple, brown and a cream color wire that is hard to make out what color it is.

What information I need: schematic information on the wiring diagram so I can figure out what color wire's function are under my truck. Which wires connect to my 7 pin harness. Trying my best to explain this, I’m doing this for myself first time in the drive way.
 

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Last edited:

AK49BWL

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The large orange wire (it's not red) is your battery feed
blue wire is electronic brake controller output
dark green is right brake/turn signal
yellow (in the same gauge size as the dark green) is left brake/turn signal
brown is park lights
light green is reverse lights
you should ground the trailer connector's ground wire to the truck frame.

I would highly consider replacing that wiring in the first image, something's bound to start shorting out over there with all that cracked and damaged insulation. Much less whatever's going on with that reverse signal wire...
 

GoToGuy

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Why do all those wires have bite marks? The lt. green is just twisted. Is that the actual loom for rear lights, brake, and turn?
 
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The large orange wire (it's not red) is your battery feed
blue wire is electronic brake controller output
dark green is right brake/turn signal
yellow (in the same gauge size as the dark green) is left brake/turn signal
brown is park lights
light green is reverse lights
you should ground the trailer connector's ground wire to the truck frame.

I would highly consider replacing that wiring in the first image, something's bound to start shorting out over there with all that cracked and damaged insulation. Much less whatever's going on with that reverse signal wire...
Thanks for the fast reply, I just came back to say I figured it out. Everything with what you said tracks with what I did only thing is I’m finding my running lights don’t work but they turn on with my reverse lights because they share the same light housing it seems. Anyway I can live without running lights today. Here are some photos of what I’ve finished with, I’ll get everything cleaned up better eventually, I just wanted to get it working first but thanks for the tip, the wires would need to completely changed out so another day.
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termite

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I’m going to make believe I don’t see those cheap quick splice
connectors. :oops:
I'm convinced they are proof of concept at the moment. OP, do yourself a favor and replace them (and any other suspect wiring) with some weathertight connectors before you are chasing gremlins.
 
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Don't worry those connectors are just the crap that came with the curt plug. I'm only using them because they are fast for diagnosing since Im working without any diagrams. When I get some time I'll also be grounding the white to the frame when I do the install with proper connectors and heat shrink. No point in having fancy sturdy connections if they are wrong. Knowledge is half the battle with wiring and the battle is half won.

To answer your question about the "bite marks" those are actually from a previous install using the same style cheap connectors. When I installed the new cheap connectors that came with the plug, I reused those teeth marks in fact to create as little new damage as possible during diagnosis. I'm not going to replace the entire harness, I start falling down the advice of some of you guys and I'll end up having to rebuild the entire truck before your happy I'm sure haha
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Don't worry those connectors are just the crap that came with the curt plug. I'm only using them because they are fast for diagnosing since Im working without any diagrams. When I get some time I'll also be grounding the white to the frame when I do the install with proper connectors and heat shrink. No point in having fancy sturdy connections if they are wrong. Knowledge is half the battle with wiring and the battle is half won.

To answer your question about the "bite marks" those are actually from a previous install using the same style cheap connectors. When I installed the new cheap connectors that came with the plug, I reused those teeth marks in fact to create as little new damage as possible during diagnosis. I'm not going to replace the entire harness, I start falling down the advice of some of you guys and I'll end up having to rebuild the entire truck before your happy I'm sure haha
You definitely want/need to install the white wire grounding terminal. The trailer connector will not work if you don't have it; even though the lights will work on the truck, the circuit won't complete for the trailer lighting (guess how I found out about that!).
Tomorrow I can get a picture of how I set it up on my crew cab, if you want one.....
 

99xcss4

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me personally I do not like to cut wires if I am going to ad a trailer plug or plugs this is what I would do get one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/153888126236?itmmeta=01HSA4X1C3AM1RVNQ8P5PZ2WKR&hash=item23d472751c:g:On4AAOSw931eiVqg&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8FPudvjQo6AOur1JUMubIqSYEl5V6ZApFfe/h0gnnWgzgrZr4fXL6688u28gO2+Mi9trRrNQ/rcl3vVkwBl649uwpF+fb6vwqiYx9x+zE4+EMfg25kz4mP0moBta7Ldo48yD29HoTZ9mrY5Q177VnWxjzv0n7Tj6Cxz23tk95g+Gvtmu7wHwzNXclvuG/npmZ58vMlrLbqmBnReJpPgu/U7o+ymDScD59vdYjbt9uXjVwN3kBbbzjulAnaQaDFl4Jka9Go3xTvTbsdsyUOrb2J0FIy/pLVd/mdPWoBXz1oXbOE2o3vxWt/Bv5hqsiJwZrw==|tkp:Bk9SR6qW9MTKYw and then get this it plug in to 4 pin and you make the ground connection and the remaining connections and if you need 4 pin you can unplug it https://www.ebay.com/itm/125709301965?itmmeta=01HSA514FDXGG0AMCYGHKF5N1Q&hash=item1d44dbb8cd:g:7RUAAOSwAshkF3Jq&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8JYJM8T/zRwtZQFG6un+grZLgTOzFw9+BppyV/7zCm3yxlatVtfXOcPRI/tPTsQxf+raqL0XG0QYfenIpJLqZ9osujseyeF1yo3XryWLBYn6cBwgkGhc6zjRuSbmpQkIzhsm53sQSHkuh2JhCauwm7p/DJLL0kRBhom/Ez+3OiWzTKGDFHRkTq/d6komASlM6drjElekZQlDZ/R0p6LegVZRnJCskP3ax/+4hgQxe6PbHt6HWkDfiRKrcsxegkadCElPcGOty4cGf3X8LYwkTcrSuOMo3jqgTh3Fm1oU5im3BW/COmUJYxNfqY5C3gtN/A==|tkp:BFBM-MeExcpj or for not much more money you can get one of these works just like the other one except you do not have to unplug it to use 4 pin because it has both https://www.ebay.com/itm/166533080940?itmmeta=01HSA514FDW0XJJQ67M140JE59&hash=item26c625276c:g:jCsAAOSwbRxjy9uy&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8EH0rAUH51pqYQxjRDk66W872L8TXa7UIigOxSyaAZd6ZWYGhnE2fAnX9H59+52WeCKID+tQroQVzlogWfJILEGEHbhHPeUWIBIphmeaVgMaibhXrDsnBzAxrR/MpYQfCmaDsEf+nplwd6WdAB5Wi45bDOHNuc/pNl5nJMoum/GcU/rAh95PDVKTUrJxp2eUg8Le9oBWG7OysqBVCdRGpzDyxMUuT1G0MWuti+mgC1R9qPYkcE+E4N+u4oqL02GcmP7rLGnHiqJu8GdF+QADwHvWFdHk3H3NkGJqQljtuUYNbMRfw1G5KfHGYeUGWm7yMw==|tkp:BFBM-MeExcpj
 
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I guess you missee the part where I said I'm doing it under the cab of the truck. No connections available to the heavy duty harness. Infact its already being used by a seperate 7 pin connector.

HotWheelsBurban post a pic if you want to, might help someone.
 
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