1991 350tbi bad valve seals?

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tsr2185

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Put hand over exhaust pipe (got duals) and can feel it push and pull while idling. Father in law said shouldnt do that and he thinks it's a leaky valve gasket or maybe timing is off. I just installed new distributor and set timing to 0 with my harbor freight timing gun. Sounds good at initial startup and idles a little odd when warm and has about 13psi oil pressure.

Just bought it and plan to put some 10w30 in it this week.

Exhaust also smells a little rich.

Thoughts?
 
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1997

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can't hurt to change to oil when you purchase a used vehicle.
might wanna do compression check if you think you have value issues.
bad valve seals allow oil into the combustion chamber so you burn oil.
Google for more details on them.
 

tsr2185

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can't hurt to change to oil when you purchase a used vehicle.
might wanna do compression check if you think you have value issues.
bad valve seals allow oil into the combustion chamber so you burn oil.
Google for more details on them.
Doesnt seem to be burning oil or smoking. I will have to check. Plan tot take it on a 4 hour trip in a few days....
 

kenh

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Does it have a miss at idle? If you are getting actually getting some vacuum in the exhaust then I would suspect a burnt exhaust valve. On that note I would say the valve would almost have to be stuck open to produce a vacuum in the exhaust.

Pull the plug wire out of the DISTRIBUTOR on the suspect cylinders to see if it idles differently. NO!!! you will not get shocked if you pull the wire from the distributor cap. Seriously trust me on this. Do it from the spark plug and you'll get it every time!!!

Ken
 

tsr2185

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Does it have a miss at idle? If you are getting actually getting some vacuum in the exhaust then I would suspect a burnt exhaust valve. On that note I would say the valve would almost have to be stuck open to produce a vacuum in the exhaust.

Pull the plug wire out of the DISTRIBUTOR on the suspect cylinders to see if it idles differently. NO!!! you will not get shocked if you pull the wire from the distributor cap. Seriously trust me on this. Do it from the spark plug and you'll get it every time!!!

Ken
Truck drives and accelerates fine. No miss or issues at highway speeds. If it is a burnt valve, is there any harm in running it and maybe putting some additives in the oil and gas?

The truck sat around for 2 years before I bought it.
 

Schurkey

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Pull the plug wire out of the DISTRIBUTOR on the suspect cylinders to see if it idles differently. NO!!! you will not get shocked if you pull the wire from the distributor cap. Seriously trust me on this. Do it from the spark plug and you'll get it every time!!!
This is NOT good practice. Whether you disconnect at the distributor end, or the spark plug end, you are creating an OPEN circuit which drives the secondary voltage to MAXIMUM, leading to ignition coil, rotor, or distributor cap insulation failures.

Far better to GROUND the spark, which lowers the spark voltage to minimums, which makes life much easier on the insulation.

Use a typical "12-volt" test light. Ground the wire, put a dab of silicone grease on the pointy end, SLIDE the point between the plug boot and the plug wire--don't pierce the insulation. When the point gets close to the metal end of the plug wire, the spark grounds through the test light (it won't flash).

Or

Get eight thin nails. Grease the points, slide each nail between the boot and the wire as before. DON'T pierce the insulation. Use the grounded test light to touch each nail in turn, shorting the spark to the various spark plugs.

Either of these methods--with a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum--works wonders when inspecting for weak or dead cylinders. When each cylinder is shorted in turn, the vacuum should drop an equal amount for each. If you ground a cylinder and the vacuum DOESN'T drop--or drops less than the other cylinders, you've found a dead or weak cylinder.

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Truck drives and accelerates fine. No miss or issues at highway speeds. If it is a burnt valve, is there any harm in running it and maybe putting some additives in the oil and gas?
If this is a burnt valve,--and I'm not convinced it is--no additives are going to help. It will get worse and worse, and it will be hard on the catalyst. A cranking compression test, or better still, a cylinder leakage test will identify a leaking valve.

Connect a scan tool, look at the data stream for anomalies with the sensors and outputs. Perhaps there are codes or pending codes.

Consider complete tune-up services--verify cap, rotor, test the ignition coil with a spark-tester calibrated for HEI. Inspect the plugs, air filter. Verify fuel pressure, consider a fresh fuel filter. Assure no vacuum leaks. Make sure the engine is running as it's supposed to, with no misfire.
 
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Erik the Awful

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0* timing? Is that all-in at 3000 rpm, or is that at idle? I typically shoot for a bit more timing.
 

tsr2185

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May have found my rich issue. Wires are toast. Got a new sensor and plug. Will change that out with oil change tomorrow. Got some Lucas oil and Lucas fuel additives. Just to help anyway it can. Truck sat for 2 years, drove once for 5 hours after a tuneup, and sat again for 7 months. New distributor, and ignition coil so far.

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thinger2

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1) Fix the wires before you pour a bunch of magic goop in
2) Dont use magic goop.
3) Dont yank wires off of a running HEI ignition That **** is old school pre TBI and pre HEI
A good way to fry your ignition and possibly jolt the crap out of yerself.
4) Dont pour magic goop in your engine. Its all a friggen scam, you might as well use tarot cards and a sacraficial chicken
 
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