There are three circuits - the two front wheel speed sensors and the vehicle speed sensor (on the transfer case, I believe) which covers both rear wheels. There aren’t sensors for each rear wheel. That’s why I was wondering if your code reader was flubbing the number somehow or if it was a...
Have you tried a different scanner to see if those are the correct numbers for those C codes? Usually, they’re in the C0## format and associated with the ABS system. Any oxygen sensor or fuel (misfire, rich, etc.) should be an emissions P code.
The 95 manual (attached) references a spacer tool to be used when the seal is installed. Is that relevant or a typo/carryover from the previous generation trucks?
If I read it right, they’re “selling” two seats, two door panels and a console for $500 including shipping.
No idea how much it costs to ship all of that, but it doesn’t really pass the sniff test. I’d be wary.
For 1998, the steering gear is in volume 2 and says that the black balls are smaller than the silver ones. It says they are to be installed alternately but doesn’t really say which one goes in first in the sequence.
Sorry, I’ve never torn one down but if in doubt I’d buy new ones from GM if they’re available. Do you have the factory manual? It should have the rebuild procedure in it and may cover the bearings. 1997 is in post #92...
The “WA” is going to be your paint code with different numbers for lower and upper if you have two-tone. The 82D is the interior color and I think seat type (vinyl or cloth). 82 is gray.
The GM manual will have a diagnostic procedure for when a scanner won’t connect. PDFs can be downloaded at this link:
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/88-98-service-manuals.43575/page-8
I don’t know if 2000 is available, but 1999 is in post #77 and should be close enough.
Have you checked fuel...
Did you change the temperature sensor (by the thermostat) or the gauge sender on the driver cylinder head. The first one could cause the hard hot start like that since the computer uses the temperature data from it. Too bad your scanner won’t connect - you’d be looking to see what temperature...
Usually a bad sensor (on the steering column) can make the steering suddenly slip as though you hit a patch of ice and then return to normal. The EVO control valve on the back of the pump is a potential leak point. If you have a wire connected at the PS line, then it’s still installed. GM...
It’s a dorman steering shaft so someone must have been chasing sloppy steering before you. The parts that they import from overseas are really hit or miss (and that’s me trying to put it nicely) so maybe keep that in mind.
I usually just use the yellow bottle Prestone PS fluid which is clear...
One way to tell if it’s been replaced is the original rag joint has rivets while the common Lares replacement will have nuts and bolts. I’d probably just rebuild the gearbox since it’ll be out.
Yes, the rag joint can be replaced while keeping the original steering shaft. Here’s a video someone did:
While there is room to pull the box out with the wheels on the ground, I’d think you will need it jacked up to get the weight off of the linkage to separate the pitman arm. I’ve not...
I’m not sure how it works in your state as we don’t have inspections, but could you just go to a different shop?
Loose steering could be caused by several other things in the steering linkage and front end, so a second look or further diagnosis would be worthwhile if you haven’t already done...
Check YouTube for videos, but I’d replace the pitman arm and flush the system.
Skip any parts store reman gearbox. Odds are high that your old one would work better. Redhead and Bluetop are two that are commonly used with decent results.
Did you put a little oil on the o-ring when the intake was seated? It’s been a while, but I think that was in the instructions that came with my Delco MPFI.
Not sure if it helps, but on my 98 the fuel line hold down bracket is about 1/16” (or the thickness of the bracket) higher than the outer...
The part number was 12561901 but is discontinued. Mine has been spliced with fuel hose for probably 15 years now - seems to be fine. If you’re in a junkyard looking, the 305 used the same hose as the 350.
A coverlay style cover may be an option if you repair it but can’t quite hit the target on cosmetics. I’ve seen some brand (Dashskin, I think) advertising reasonably close matches to factory colors.
Of course that’s probably another $200…
It should be a switched circuit (either energized or not) based on the temperature dial being in the “max” detent position. If the panel is energizing the solenoid at other dial positions then I could see your air temp fluctuating.
I had a cheap dorman a/c panel that did that just before it...