Need Anti Sway Bar Help

sewlow said:

Both my RCSB's have rear bars. Not factory though.
The one that's been on both trucks at one time or another is off of a 1/2t Burb.
Super easy install & one of my best/favorite mods on my trucks. Makes the front & rear feel as if they are actually working together. The handling diff with/without is night & day.

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A bit off-topic, but did the Tahoe sway bar bolt up with any issues? I picked up a 'hoe for parts but I haven't gotten around to checking if that's something that will transfer over to my c1500

sewlow said:

Both my RCSB's have rear bars. Not factory though.
The one that's been on both trucks at one time or another is off of a 1/2t Burb.
Super easy install & one of my best/favorite mods on my trucks. Makes the front & rear feel as if they are actually working together. The handling diff with/without is night & day.

Click to expand...

Will keep that in mind Sewlow, right now just trying to get the side to side sway that I am getting. Need to get it to where it can pass inspection and then I may have to look into adding one in the rear. I like the thought of having more control, not that I will be driving fast for any reason(low and slow)

dngr said:

A bit off-topic, but did the Tahoe sway bar bolt up with any issues? I picked up a 'hoe for parts but I haven't gotten around to checking if that's something that will transfer over to my c1500

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Do this on level ground.
You need the brackets on the frame from the 'hoe, along with the bolts & the specific nuts that fit inside of the frame. Those have a tab on them which hits up on the inner frame rails to prevent them from spinning when tightening them down. Can't get a wrench in there to hold 'em.
You'll also need some 3" H/D extended length muffler clamps. Regular ones are shorter & the steel bar is a lighter gauge.
Plus, either the original small brackets/shells & bushings that bolt up to the 'hoe's rear diff, or you can get new grease-able ones with urethane bushings from any parts store for cheap. (-$20.00?)
The muffler clamps go in between the 2 plates of the shock mounts on the diff. One will face forward, the other back.
Slide that pressed & bent muffler clamp piece with the holes over the ends of the bent part.
IIRC the urethane bushings are split so they can be wrestled onto the bar. If not, gotta slide 'em on over the ends of the bar. Assemble the uprights & frame brackets onto the bar.
Bolt the assembly onto the muffler clamps. Fairly snug, but still loose enough so that they can be shifted around on the diff. The bolts have to be holding both the clamp & the bushing shells all with the one nut. Don't forget a washer.
Now you need a 3rd. hand. Someone to help get that bar horizontal to the ground & square to the frame. Tighten those clamps a bit.
With the weight of the vehicle on the tires, get a hold of that upright & bracket assembly. While holding those uprights as perpendicular as possible (Straight up!) from the ground, mark the holes to be drilled for the frame brackets.
Probably easier to just trace around the outside of the bracket. Mark the holes later. Seems to me that where the upright is bolted to the bracket is kinda tight in there to properly mark the holes. It's been a while since I've done one of these.
Drop it down & drill.
Now you have to take the frame brackets off of the uprights & bolt 'em to the frame using the donor's bolts & those specific nuts. Can't do that with the uprights attached to the brackets. No way to get any tool in there.
Once it's all mounted up, check to see weather the clamps have shifted & that the bar is still horizontal & square & that the uprights are still perpendicular. If it's all good, give everything a final snugging up.
I had a bit of a prob getting those uprights exactly right. Rather than re-drill those holes in the frame, a bit of a PitA, I slotted the holes in the frame brackets so I could adjust them to be just right.
Altogether, it took me the better part of 2 hours to do the first install of one of these.
The drilling of the holes in the frame took a while. On my back in the driveway. Hot shards of drilled frame metal falling! Yeow! Lol!

I've since replaced that original rubber with urethane. They come in 1/2's. 8 pieces. Had to dig through a divided case to figure out which were the right ones. There is no listing for those specific bushings.
Maybe $20.00.

http://djmsuspension.com/product/el01/ I don't know if you had any luck finding these.. just going to put that right there.. 17 bucks

I am running djm tubular control arms on my truck, with 2" drop spindles and 2" drop springs, truck also has a bigger belltech front sway bar, I just measured the spacer for my sway bar end link and the spacer it self is only 3 1/4 inches long. For the life of me I can't remember where I ordered the end link from or if I cut a stock size one down.

Gambles said:

http://djmsuspension.com/product/el01/ I don't know if you had any luck finding these.. just going to put that right there.. 17 bucks

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Yep already got them, cheaper at Summit after the shipping. Will be putting it on this weekend, as well as shaving the tailgate and the doors. Going to be a good weekend.