So now that I’ve been able to pin down the specs of what I would actually be buying (with minimal/no help from them), I will can step back and take a larger view of the situation.
Another option that is possible is to find a relatively low mileage, used, stock engine that runs well, and stick it...
I didn’t think about those particular items. I’d never even heard of an oil cooler (transmission cooler,yes) until the other day. I’ll ask. These people are very cumbersome to deal with. The “sales” people are more like just order takers and can’t give much information. There is no real...
Ok.. this is the prospect…
What say ye?
(No sales tax or shipping cost)
-> Also:” It can use, although not recommended, 87 octane gasoline if the ignition timing curve is correct. Also it is okay with the stock torque converter and exhaust system, however we recommended quality headers and a...
https://www.hughesperformance.com/tc-stall/
“There are three common methods to gauge the stall speed characteristics of a torque converter. Footbrake stall is the maximum amount of engine RPM that can be achieved in a forward operating range with the brakes fully applied to prevent the vehicle...
Stall for a torque converter, apparently depends on a number of variables. Someone should make a calculator to make it easier to flesh this out.’
#1 is the converter manufacturer. They manufacture them differently.
This is how Hays figures it… https://documents.holley.com/199r11353.pdf
This better?
This is a good indicator that I won’t need to go crazy with a new torque converter. They get expensive. I need to figure out how to keep the torque within reason (probably via the camshaft) if possible.
Basically then it is based on the torque curve of the engine and the RPM.
It appears that a 92 OEM 350 for the van has something like 285 ft.lbs. Of torque and the stock converter on the 4l80e has a stall around 1800-2000 rpm.
This transmission guy on youtube uses a “K factor” equation to get...
Going down the rabbit hole on stall speed for a converter, what I get so far.
I need to go deeper, for sure. Preliminary conclusion is that i need to keep the torque (specifically looking at the cam) down to a point where i can keep the torque converter under 3000.
1. Accurately deciding stall...
The only issue that I have heard of with flat tappet cams is failure on break in.
Buy an engine, put it in, and the cam craps out within the first 15 minutes. Pull the engine back out and I have to prove that I didn’t “broke it in wrong”.
No thanks.