I have HP tuners now because I needed it to be able to tune my 2011 Suburban, but I started with an OBDxPro VT(now discontinued and moved to the VX for the same functions plus more) https://obdxpro.com/product/obdx-pro-vx-obd2-diagnostics-and-tuning/
Using that tool, you can then use free...
Since we are getting technical here... once you start going above 100mph, you actually hit a point where the amount of drag you have to intentionally create to make downforce on rear tires to have enough traction to keep moving forward surpasses the amount of drag generated from the frontal...
Yeah... that's what I said... in detail... two posts above yours. The less restriction you give the intake manifold to the outside air, the less vacuum you will see at WOT.
29 inches isn't necessarily absolute vacuum. That is a gauge measurement that would show close to absolute vacuum...
All years had that. That is the line that you were asked to check and remove to verify FPR function way back in the first pages of the thread. It should be a short vacuum line running from the FPR to the back of the manifold. It is very common for it to rot out and cause a big vacuum leak among...
Volume isn't changing? How do you think an engine works?
That piston moving down in the cylinder while the intake valve is open and the exhaust valve is closed is increasing the volume of the area after the throttle blade. This change in volume is what drives the pressure down(creates vacuum)...
I think you are fundamentally misunderstanding how all of this works.
The entire area is hotter than ambient air. You are always going to be adding heat to the system without an intercooler or atomizing fuel.
Velocity is not a part of the ideal gas law.
The only reason pressure is...
No, that's not how that works. You can see from the data that the Temperature isn't even remaining constant, you are actually pumping heat into the air the entire way into the cylinder. Also, technically pressure isn't dropping. You are actually increasing the pressure in the manifold from idle...
That is not the spec with the return line blocked off.
As others have said... repeatedly. Those symptoms do not jive with a FPR. The second you blocked off the return line, you took it out of the equation. This is either a blocked fuel feed line(sock pickup in the tank or fuel filter that I...
Just make sure your CMP is good. You shouldn't need to run another one if you don't have a check engine light on. There is a procedure in this thread that supposedly will let your truck do the crank relearn on it's own.
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/case-learn-or-crank-relearn.6423/
You can rent tools for free from Autozone or Oreillys. That includes compression tester, multimeter, fuel pressure tester, etc..
For battery drain, disconnect the battery cable from the positive terminal and connect a multimeter between the positive terminal and the battery cable. Select...
This has no diagnostic value.
You have evidence that fuel pressure is not right. Focus on that until you find the culprit. Once you have fully diagnosed that issue, fix that problem and then re-test. Any part you replace that wasn't actually broken is another potential issue being introduced...
You will just end up chasing your tail and spend tons of money to potentially solve nothing like that. There have been lots of good advise on how to simply troubleshoot your problem and you seem to completely ignore it and instead laser focus on something that everyone is telling you IS NOT the...