Engine started ticking.

[Diego0123005]

*Edit*
Not sure how to describe the noise. If its knocking or ticking

I have a 92 Silverado with the 5.7 liter. This motor already burns a lot of oil. Smoke outta the exhaust. Originally when i first got it it has a small tick in it but ever so quiet. Im running about 4 Quarts of castrol 20W50 + 1 Quart of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer (recommended by mechanic) + 1/2 Quart of No Smoke and Stop leak (additive that i found at walmart). I measure the dip stick and the oil level is good. This tick can be heard when you do a cold start on it and it gets louder as the engine warms up. Im good on coolant. My temp gauge will go up 1 dash above 210 and then lower itself between 100 and 210. Before i switched to 20W50 i was running 10W40 and my oil pressure would go down and up as i drove. Now that i am on 20W50 it stays put beside 60.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Good god, that oil must have the consistency of honey... The valvetrain oil passages can't be all that wide, running oil so thick like that is probably why you're hearing valve train noise. I hope you're not running that 20W stuff under 50 degrees F either. 10W-40 gets pretty viscous under 30F, can't imagine what 20W-50 would do. Also, I personally don't buy into any of that Lucas Mucus stuff. What's it going to do, swell your already shot valve stem seals? The 305 in my 89 Fireturd burns oil like it was free. Don't always see it but it burns it. I just throw more oil in it as it needs it.

 

[Diego0123005]

Good god, that oil must have the consistency of honey... The valvetrain oil passages can't be all that wide, running oil so thick like that is probably why you're hearing valve train noise. I hope you're not running that 20W stuff under 50 degrees F either. 10W-40 gets pretty viscous under 30F, can't imagine what 20W-50 would do. Also, I personally don't buy into any of that Lucas Mucus stuff. What's it going to do, swell your already shot valve stem seals? The 305 in my 89 Fireturd burns oil like it was free. Don't always see it but it burns it. I just throw more oil in it as it needs it.

Im in texas in 100 degree weather so i dont think its an issue. If i run oil on its own i throw out smoke like a fog machine. Even on 20W50

 

[Ironhead]

Agree that heavier oil is not the solution to this problem. I assume that you can tell the difference between a knock and a tick. That ticking sound is usually valve gear noise. Sooner or later you're going to have to bite the bullet and rebuild or replace that engine. In the meantime, just think to yourself that oil is cheap, and go back to putting in the recommended viscosity, which IIRC is 5-w-30.

 

[Diego0123005]

Agree that heavier oil is not the solution to this problem. I assume that you can tell the difference between a knock and a tick. That ticking sound is usually valve gear noise. Sooner or later you're going to have to bite the bullet and rebuild or replace that engine. In the meantime, just think to yourself that oil is cheap, and go back to putting in the recommended viscosity, which IIRC is 5-w-30.

May have made a mistake. It might be more of a knocking sound. And as far as an engine or a rebuild i am in the process of getting an engine for it. Previous owner said it was already rebuilt but i got home and discovered the smoke from the oil burning. If this is a knocking sound rather than a ticking, i dont know what could be causing it. I am not familiar with these older engines. Maybe the coolant is not flowing properly enough, thus thinning out the oil.

 

[Diego0123005]

Agree that heavier oil is not the solution to this problem. I assume that you can tell the difference between a knock and a tick. That ticking sound is usually valve gear noise. Sooner or later you're going to have to bite the bullet and rebuild or replace that engine. In the meantime, just think to yourself that oil is cheap, and go back to putting in the recommended viscosity, which IIRC is 5-w-30.

5w30 is risking it in this texas weather. I ran that in my 02 Xterra because it was recommended in the manual but the oil thinned out and caused the engine to knock/tick. Switched to 10W40 and it runs with no problems

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Probably not burning as much oil with the Lucas Mucus because not as much can get up top to then get sucked through the stem seals! LoL.

Unfortunately that is why I would never trust someone who says the engine has been rebuilt, that means nothing to me and shouldn't to you either. Unless it's from a reputable shop with documentation it's anybody's guess as to what they actually did to it or how long it will last. Thing probably spun a bearing, makes sense that now you say it has 60 psi. Bearing will spin, blocking the oil gallery and now you've got higher pressure because of the restriction. I'd say you're on the right track looking for a new motor.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

All oils aren't created equal. If you're just buying Walmart Synthetic that's not going to be as good as say Valvoline SynPower. That's the stuff I use. Based on SAE test results it's better than Mobil 1. That stuff aside, the way an oil behaves at temperature is going to vary between formulations & manufacturers. I'm not an expert but how hot it is outside won't make a big impact on your oil's viscosity unless of course the cooling system can't keep up. Experts and all the gobly guck I've read suggests the most wear & tear happens at start-up & during warm up.

 

[Diego0123005]

Probably not burning as much oil with the Lucas Mucus because not as much can get up top to then get sucked through the stem seals! LoL.

Unfortunately that is why I would never trust someone who says the engine has been rebuilt, that means nothing to me and shouldn't to you either. Unless it's from a reputable shop with documentation it's anybody's guess as to what they actually did to it or how long it will last. Thing probably spun a bearing, makes sense that now you say it has 60 psi. Bearing will spin, blocking the oil gallery and now you've got higher pressure because of the restriction. I'd say you're on the right track looking for a new motor.

Previous owner seemed like someone who didn't take care of their things. This silverado needs some serious TLC. Are these motors reliable? All these problems just make me want to get rid of it. And as far as the engine goes, im trying to get the smoke diminished by as much as possible Which is why i used the lucas additive and the Stop leak and no smoke additive. I was running 20W50 without knocking noise until one day it just came out of nowhere.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Hmm, that's something I factor in when buying a vehicle. If nothing else it helps you prepare for the financial shock of getting the vehicle back into shape.

Depends what you want to do with it, as in your case it might just be best to start over with. All of my older car buddies say the cleaner you start, the easier it is in the long run, not to mention cheaper. I'd say the engines are reliable, I've seen the so called "Turd" flat tappet 454 like I've got with just a four speed go over 300k miles. All depends on maintenance. That's my experience though.

Back to your truck though, I really feel that by trying to get the smoke to go away you caused the knock. Oil pump had a hard time pushing that sludge through to the main bearings. Sure, the gauge said you had pressure with your oil "cocktail" but you most likely didn't have flow, which is critical. Reason bearing spin is because things are too tight. Could be that whoever built that engine didn't pay attention to clearances and such.