how about these?
http://automationled.3dcartstores.com/22W-LED-HEADLIGHT-KIT_p_138.html
i was thinking about getting them, but they cost over twice as much as HIRs. More lumens than stock, less than HIRs
How about those... absolute garbage. ANY 'drop in' led product is going to be a step back from stock. In a reflector housing, there is only one focal point, and that is optimized for a filament light source. Moving even the stock 9005 / 9006 in or out of the housing while lit will show you this.
Running an HID kit will give you more light, but not optimized, as the radiation pattern will not be smooth, more like the spokes of a wheel. As well, there will be glare for oncoming traffic, and this is a dangerous practice. The light projecting from the electrodes inside the HID bulb comes from a curved arc, and is not at the focal point of the reflector.
As well there is no way in H-e-double-l that heatsink is capable enough for 22w of thermal dissipation. It's like most of the garbage coming from China, if you call them on it, they will say, it 'produces the same light as a 22W filament bulb'.
The tiny heatsink in the picture would most likely cause thermal runaway on a 3w LED star driven at 1 amp or so after 10 minutes or so from experience.
Look carefully at the ad copy:
LUMENS: 1200 LM/LED
VOLTAGE: DC12C~14V
INPUT: 1180+-30mA
POWER: 22W/SET
WARRANTY: 1 YEAR
22w per set... 11 watts each, and how much is being dissipated in a resistor, since I assure you there is not going to be a buck / boost driver. I also don't buy the 1200 lumens...
This is a 'REAL' LED star that could be made to work, however you would need proper optics in front of the LED, that do not exist in a 'drop' on package.
http://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xpg2-indus-star-3-up-cool-white-high-power-led
The heatsink required to make this live would be fairly large, especially in climates with high outside ambient temperatures. You would also need to use arctic silver thermal epoxy or the arctic silver thermal paste with 4-40 screws to mount the star to the heatsink.
Then, you would have to use the correct silicone to hold your optics and the optic holder to the star, and isolate the heat from the sink from where it mounts to the headlight housing with something like a bakelite sheet in front of the sink. Mounting the driver shouldn't be a challenge though.
You would also have to bake apart your headlight housing, unless you dremel the back out some for the optic and holder to pass through from the back side.
Of course, you would only be able to use this for off-road, shows or competition use... since it would not meet any standard for use upon a public highway.
