Time to replace stock exhaust on 97 K1500 Z71

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Zelda

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Hello all,
First of all, I'm rather green behind the ears and not very knowledgeable about exhaust systems. I own a 1997 Silverado K1500 Z71, 141" wheelbase, 3 door, with a brand new GM L31 replaced last year. Did some front end work (upper/lower ball joints, upper/lower control arm bushings, tie rods, idler arm & bracket, pitman arm, sway bar bushings, wheel hubs, and half shafts, pretty much all but the steering box and rag joint. I'm 62 now and am trying to drive this truck to my grave while keeping costs down. I don't need, nor can afford, a new truck or high end performance parts and do all I can myself rather than depending on shops. Having said that, a shop did my engine and I did the front end but for the alignment. I'm pretty happy with my stock OBS and drive gently.
To the best of my knowledge, the truck has stock dual exhaust system from manifolds to tail pipes, I'm guessing the system is original. I now hear exhaust leak coming from around the muffle area and have some holes in my exhaust tips (the tips might not be original, I wouldn't know). the dual tips exit to the rear on either side of my stock hitch assembly.
Time to work on the exhaust.
I'd like to retain the benefits of a dual exhaust from the cats back. So far so good on the cats and want to keep costs down. Would like to use stainless as it lasts longer. Don't need nor want a loud system. I don't think I can afford to buy OEM Chevy parts even if they are still available so will probably have to turn to the aftermarket.
A number of questions, please.
Did my truck come original with a dual exhaust setup (2 cats and 2 mufflers, dual exhaust "tips")?
Should I go with a single, X (or H?) type muffler (2 in and 2 out) or stick with dual mufflers? I don't know enough to discern the pros and cons.
Can you recommend a manufacturer based on which muffler setup you'd recommend? I have done some cursory looking and see that Hottexhaust.com has a Magnaflow 15750 that is a 2 into 1 into 2 cat back setup for $893 (w/ possible 20% discount right now). Should I be looking at Walker exhaust? If so, which Walker kit?
If not either of those then which manufacturer would best suit my needs?
Would I be OK using a bolt on system I do myself or should I just ultimately find a reputable local shop and have them weld their recommended system? Not sure if a bolt on system is as durable over the long run as what a shop might do.
Thanks in advance.
 

OutlawDrifter

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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17363

This kit would be similar to what you have and bolt right up, and would be nice and quiet while still having a deep tone. It is, however, aluminized.

When I had my '98 Z71 ECSB(Extended Cab Short Bed), I Y'd the pipe together after the flush face flange post cats. Than ran a single 20" case Dynomax Ultraflow mufller (#17233) with a single 3" tailpipe in the stock location. One of the best setups I've ever ran for sound volume in and out of the cab and sound quality. Zero drone.

Not sure of the length of muffler on the Magnaflow system. The 14" unit will be a little louder. The 18" would be the shortest I would go with. But it would be a quality system.

For the money on the Magnaflow, if you had a good muffler shop in the area, they could put something together for you.
 

Erik the Awful

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The #1 question on exhaust systems is "Can you weld?" If so, DIY. If not, I'd head over to the local cheap muffler shop with the guy who's been welding up exhausts since I was in diapers. The exhaust on my '69 Cadillac sounded like butt and rubbed on the driveshaft, so I went to a local shop. Come to find out, the previous shop had just clamped the exhaust together janky. They fully welded it and fixed everything. It only cost me $120 instead of replacing the whole system.

You're in San Antonio. I would worry as much about stainless over aluminized tubing.
 

firestoness

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No 1500 GMT400 ever came with 2 mufflers. Therefore No bolt on option will work on your truck. Best option find a good custom exhaust shop and make a new system. Even if you went bolt on new from manifolds back there isn't anything out there that will be better than a quality custom job. OE Y-pipe is very small diameter. 2500 exhaust y-pipe is much larger but you can't find the OE y-pipe anymore with the stock cats and O2 sensor holes.
 

95burban

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I would go to a good exhaust shop and tell them you would like true duals(2.5in)with either a h or x pipe with the quietist performance muffler they have (probably a turbo style). Last time I did true duals with an x pipe and flowmaster flowFX mufflers was around $400

Factory is single 3in in most cases, many exhaust shops can’t bend 3in exhaust nicely, so that’s why i suggest 2.5in true dual.
 

evilunclegrimace

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No 1500 GMT400 ever came with 2 mufflers. Therefore No bolt on option will work on your truck. Best option find a good custom exhaust shop and make a new system. Even if you went bolt on new from manifolds back there isn't anything out there that will be better than a quality custom job. OE Y-pipe is very small diameter. 2500 exhaust y-pipe is much larger but you can't find the OE y-pipe anymore with the stock cats and O2 sensor holes.
There are plenty of after market companies that offer factory style front pipe/cat combos.
 

Moofus02

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On my 99 suburban I used the h pipe listed and a cat back system like the one shown but with a 2 in 2 out muffler. Sounds good had a rap to it but isn't too loud and doesn't drone. At the price now days I would have an exhaust shop so it. I had less in the entire system than the car back kit cost now
 

EKOBS

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The #1 question on exhaust systems is "Can you weld?" If so, DIY. If not, I'd head over to the local cheap muffler shop with the guy who's been welding up exhausts since I was in diapers. The exhaust on my '69 Cadillac sounded like butt and rubbed on the driveshaft, so I went to a local shop. Come to find out, the previous shop had just clamped the exhaust together janky. They fully welded it and fixed everything. It only cost me $120 instead of replacing the whole system.

You're in San Antonio. I would worry as much about stainless over aluminized tubing.
I completely agree with you if you can weld, DIY. I’ll add being able to cut tubing reasonably quickly and accurately is very helpful so is being able to stretch a tube for a socket type fit, I used the Lisle tool#17350.

The tube stretcher works if you can keep it from rotating, sometimes a vice is good enough, sometimes I drilled through a discardable end and put a 1/2” rod through it or welded something on to keep it from rotating. Oh, by the way, drilling holes in tube is not fun, do your self a favor and use a Rotabroach for that.
 
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