After shots of interior work and clean-up so far... Sorry, no before shots. Went with ACC carpet from Rock Auto. It left a lot to be desired. Would have been nice to know a definitive datum as a starting point. Also, jute padding (absolutely nowhere near stock thickness) was glued with gaps that caused wrinkles (I was able to fix), and folding left wrinkles in the middle of the floor in the rear. I had to trim an awful lot for a "direct fit" replacement...
Thinking about going with the suburban Weather Techs- Trying to decide between grey and black. I think black might be a nice contrast to match the meter bezel, but grey wont show dirt.
Id like to have the driver seat repadded and recovered, but I doubt any of this material exists anymore.
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Nice. Clean truck!
Not that it helps you now but,
For some reason 3rd. party vendors sell ACC carpets cheaper than buying direct from ACC. WTF?
Even then, I'll still order direct. Paying the few extra bucks allows for individual order specifics.
The 3rd. party guys just carry stock of, or order the basic standard generic versions.
Going right to ACC, I'll get them to NOT glue the jute to the carpet.
Include it separately.
That way, I can glue the underlay down to the floor first. Ensures it's in the right spot. Then...the carpet gets glued down.
This is the way I was taught w-a-y back before aftermarket molded carpets even existed. Back when any replacement carpet was cut-n-sewn by hand. Custom made to each individual vehicle. A day's work.
Yes, their basic underlay (jute) is on the thinner side.
There are thicker versions, but only in roll-stock & not from ACC.
The thin has it's place, though. That thickness comes into play when a whole lot of sound deadening has been put down first.
Also, when upgrading to their thicker 'Ultra Plush' Essex carpet, thicker underlay can create even more fitment problems than what the Essex already creates.
Sound deadener + thicker underlay + 'Mass Backing' + Essex = an exercise in frustration.
The prob is not the fitment so much when laying all that down. It's the probs with everything that is attached to the floor on top of the carpet. Suddenly, screws & bolts are too short. Consoles don't fit quite right. Kick panels can't slide all the way froward into place. Crank the bolts down for the seats & the carpet starts to pull in from the side as all those materials compress.
The wrinkles will fade over time. A week of hot summer sun with the windows up will help. Wrinkles can be lessened by laying the carpet out for a day or two in a warm room or in the sun before the install.
Better too big than too small.
There are tricks to deal with all that extra, though. Cutting reliefs (kerfs) down into the corners in order for the bulk to lay over itself helps instead of creating those bulky folds. Always cut those shorter than actually required. They can be made to be longer if need be.
I dread doing the driver side of carpets. Always have. Even more so now that I'm (*ahem*) 'somewhat' (*cough*) older. I'd gladly teach someone just to do carpets for me. The floor isn't that far down, but sometimes it sure can be a long ways back up.
That seat material is non-existent. My network of contacts over the various auto upholstery forums, including some former GM trimmers, have no lines on any stock.
But...there is a way!
Those front seat covers are not symetrical driver to passenger.
It's the material that's the same. The material from a passenger seat can be utilized to repair the driver side.
A rear seat's cushion is too short for front seat repairs.
A rear seat backrest will work for front backrest repairs.
On those buckets, there is a slight difference on the faces (The parts you sit on) between the Dr. & Pass. seats. The outer wings are shaped/cut differently in order to allow for the working of the hinge on the outer side of the seats. Material from that back seat backrest can be used to get the seat covers presentable.
Grab a backseat B.R. cover & a passenger side cushion cover outa the local pick-n-pull & any decent upholstery guy/girl will have more than enough to make that driver seat look purdy again.
If they know how to do that, then they'll surely have the know-how to fix that foam up properly. It's just not a matter of laying more foam over top of the old broken down original. The outer edge breaks down for a reason & done right, the cause can be somewhat alleviated. At least enough for the next 20 years.
Outer-edge foam repairs are not uncommon. These trucks aren't that bad. The foam seems to have stood up over time better than most. Depends on the owner.
I was seeing Dodge trucks start to show up at my door for driver side outer edge seat repairs when they were 6 months old. 2-3/month.
There can't possibly be that many Dodge owners that all beat their seats up in exactly the same manner so that they all break down in exactly the same spot!