Front dif?

Cherryred98 · Feb 22, 2024

Update: so i took it for a drive to Safeway last night and the transmission is most definitely slipping and when I put it in “3” or drive it won’t go anywhere from a stop no matter how much gas I give it. I have to manually shift it. So I will be getting the transmission and transfer case from that donor truck I’ve been talking about, so besides for the engine I will have a z71 drivetrain, I’ll probably make another thread on the transmission swap when I get to it.

And as for the front dif it’s been raining, and now I have bigger fish to fry.

Cherryred98 · Mar 26, 2024

I pulled the transmission out of the 94 donor truck and slapped it in the 98, and it didn’t work. I’m waiting on the money to have the old transmission (the 98) rebuilt. On another note! Just before I pulled the trans I put 35’s on it and people were saying on my other thread that I need to change the gearing to keep from ruining transmission’s repeatedly, they recommended 4.56 and 4.88. A lot of people were saying the 4.56’s are perfect for the 35s, what brand is going to be my best bang for my buck and should I have a shop install the gears or should I do it?

Cherryred98 · Monday at 3:38 PM

Update: I ordered a monster quick ship trans and I talked to the builder and told them what gears I have and tire size so they can have the trans geared to the differentials and tires, when it comes I’ll swap the front dif, using the 98 axle tube on the 94 dif. Anyone know a part number from autozone on the gasket for the axle tube? Worse comes to worse I’ll cut one out from some gasket material and goop some permatex on er

454cid · Monday at 5:32 PM

Cherryred98 said:
Update: I ordered a monster quick ship trans and I talked to the builder and told them what gears I have and tire size so they can have the trans geared to the differentials and tires, when it comes I’ll swap the front dif, using the 98 axle tube on the 94 dif. Anyone know a part number from autozone on the gasket for the axle tube? Worse comes to worse I’ll cut one out from some gasket material and goop some permatex on er

I haven't read the whole thread, but that's not how that works.

Schurkey · Monday at 6:00 PM

^^^ Yup. In the old days, you'd maybe get the speedo gearing closer to correct by telling the shop details like that.

It's the axles that have to be re-geared, and that's not a job for the faint-of-heart.

Getting pinion depth correct alone is a challenge. If the pinion depth isn't right, nothing else is going to be right. And I'm hearing that current production pinion gears may not even be marked for pinion depth measurement, making the job nearly impossible.

Getting so that IF (big IF) you can find the gear ratio you want, it's better for the D-I-Yer to swap the entire axle than to swap gears.

Cherryred98 · Monday at 6:01 PM

Out of curiosity then, why did they ask be about my gear ratio and tire size?

sdinAZ · Monday at 6:31 PM

evilunclegrimace said:
It is easy enough, there is not a "C" clip on the spider. Engage the front diff into 4x4 before you remove it is possible, if not stand it on end short side down and drive the long axle up by striking the flange to get the wire clip holding the axle in place to disengage.Remove the actuator, replace the axle seal, unbolt the 5 bolts holding the tube on and clean the mating surfaces. You can see the shift fork and sliding collar that locks the axle gear to the stub . There is a thrust washer under the axle gear that can slide out of place. lift the short axle gear out clean the lube off the contact surfaces on BOTH side of the thrust washer and stick it in place with some assembly lube.
I take the axle gear and tap it on to the axle after the axle is back in the tube( pay attention to the orientation) and make sure that the gear is retained by the wire clip that is on the inner spline. Apply the proper sealant to the mating surfaces and carefully reinstall the axle tube assembly back on to the diff case making sure that you don't move the thrust washer. I find it helps to use a piece of wooden dowel about 12" long inserted though the acuator bore to hold the shift fork plunger down to keep the thrust washer from sliding out of position.
It sounds alot more complicated than it is.

I have a 1990 K-1500 and I am in the middle of this RH seal change. Now I am at the point of tapping the gear back on the axle but it isn't working. It came off easy enough, but now... Is there a trick to it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Nad_Yvalhosert · Monday at 6:46 PM

Cherryred98 said:
Out of curiosity then, why did they ask be about my gear ratio and tire size?

Number and type of friction and steels in the clutch packs, shift points and pressure modulation (internal coil springs) in the valvebody when they build the valve body to your vehicle setup, i.e. OE stock vs modified with different tire sizes(axle gears)

Nad_Yvalhosert · Monday at 6:51 PM

Cherryred98 said:
I pulled the transmission out of the 94 donor truck and slapped it in the 98, and it didn’t work.

OBD2 tranny in an OBD1 vehicle? I'm not surprised it's NF.

Nad_Yvalhosert · Monday at 6:53 PM

Cherryred98 said:
Anyone know a part number from autozone on the gasket for the axle tube?

Yup, ready? Part number is: RTV

Front dif?

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