That’s what I did. I put the donor replacement actuator into diff (original) before removing the original diff and drove it in 4. And it engaged into both 4 and 4lo fine. My battery was dead the next morning but I think that was a coincidence. Like dead dead. Warranty covered it. I hope I didn’t have anything to do with an electrical issue I caused by using the other actuator but I doubt it.
So I took the original actuator and put it into the donor diff and today I finally did the R&R.
You do not have to remove the center link as some you tube videos suggested. But it is a funky twist that took two ppl. So if you’re using a jack to support it you probably gotta remove the center link.
Anyway we got it in and tested it at driveway speeds and it engaged into 4 and 4lo just fine. It snowed tonight so I took it to the store and put it in 4hi for the straight part of the road. It still starts grinding exactly like before around 25 mph. I’m pretty bummed since I realize I guessed what the noise was. I’m hoping it may need an actuator since that hasn’t changed in the process. I hate to throw more cash at it so I may try swapping the donor actuator in for a drive tomorrow.
I had suspicions about the transfer case but the noise really comes from the front right. Like you can almost hear and feel it from that direction.
Maybe I go get a new actuator and give it a try. Maybe I just hope I never need 4x4 over 25 mph. I bet I know what the noise was when it breaks all the way.
I’m rambling. Thanks guys