I was wondering what I can apply to the new distributor shaft magnet on my 1994 tbi 350 to try to keep it from rust jacking and cracking the new magnet on my new shaft . Was thinking spraying it with wd40 or fluid film, would this be a bad thing to do? Would spraying aerosol clear coat work ? Any ideas are appreciated.
I think that's a great idea. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of rust and all that. :0)
Anyone who's seen the inside of these distributors after the ozone + a little humidity accelerated
by the normal thermal cycling would be wondering if they can't add a layer of 'tropicalizing' to the assembly.
The distributor could easily reach 250 degrees, so any grease-like protector will have to be stable to higher temp than that or it'll just melt off. the pole-piece (reluctor) rotates at 1/2 engine speed, so there's some centrifugal force trying to fling any grease or oil off.
I hadn't considered this before, but perhaps spray paint (clear, for esthetics) might work. IDEALLY those parts would have been plated with zinc (galvanized) or cadmium or something for corrosion resistance.
For what it's worth, I can personally vouch that this engine paint clear coat holds up well in
a hot engine bay. (Claimed to withstand up to 500° F temps)
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(various places where this paint can be purchased in addition to the local parts store:
Duplicolor engine enamel Gloss Clear)
For what it's worth this is exactly what I'll be using when I refresh the chore truck engine bay and
renew the dizzy. (Keeping the still operational known-good dizzy as a spare on the shelf.)
Good stuff. Applied with care this should help more than it hurts. And bonus points if
you were to look into what
@L31MaxExpress had come up with to vacuum out the ozone
and have it replaced with much less reactive fresh air. I'm thinking that between these
2 preventive measures this will bring the inside of my distributor up to
@SNCTMPL's 'dad & lad'
restoration level as currently seen elsewhere in the forum. :0)