Oh gotcha, I just went back and reread that; my bad I didn’t read that right.I didn't say it was a rotor problem I was explaining a symptom, not a problem
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Oh gotcha, I just went back and reread that; my bad I didn’t read that right.I didn't say it was a rotor problem I was explaining a symptom, not a problem
Any chance the tach signal wire could create any problems? On the gray connector, white which goes up to the cluster. Pretty sure it's just an output wire that goes to the cluster, but just making sure.I didn't say it was a rotor problem I was explaining a symptom, not a problem
Im going to try adding that ground and wiggling the wires some more, aswell as hard wiring it to the battery for testing, but past that if its happy with the coil on the firewall, ill just let it be happy there.
Any chance the tach signal wire could create any problems? On the gray connector, white which goes up to the cluster. Pretty sure it's just an output wire that goes to the cluster, but just making sure.
Side note from the post first, I wish I knew how to quote your different parts of the response, would be a lot more organized lol, but,I'm reminded of this:
Patient: "Doctor, it hurts when I do this"
Doctor: "Then don't do that"
IMHO that's just hiding a problem and hoping it doesn't come back to bite you in the @ss.
Well, in normal operation it's an "output" to the tach, and it's "driven" by the ignition control module... but if something was amiss on the tach wire it could cause a problem. If prior owner did some funky stuff and that wire was left bare and somehow exposed to a possible ground point (firewall, etc.), a momentary ground of that wire would create a momentary spark from the coil, and repeated, erratic grounding of that wire would cause repeated, erratic sparks from the coil.
do you think there’s any chance a bad PCM could be causing my problems?
I’m just starting to second guess the wiring issue; because when me and the shop wiggled the wires it did nothing at all to make the problem worse, which I would expect it to.
I don’t know how a bad PCM would explain it running bad with the coil in a certain spot though. It’s just all so weird.
Yeah the timing connector under the dash does go to the ECU.Well, you could always try another ECU. The last time I checked (well, it’s been a while) they were cheap and plentiful. I have one in the basement in fact for the 1995s.
They’re pretty easy to swap, it’s right there in the glove box.
But… everything we’ve seen (referring to your video that you posted earlier, with the exception of what you just told us about the experience at the shop, which I highlighted above) points to an electrical problem that’s related to the wiring / connectors between the coil and ignition control module / tach. I would focus there.
Agreed.
I have a thought.
On the '94 models, the timing is set by disconnecting the wire from the ECU to the ignition control module and then twisting the dizzy to get 0deg with a timing light.
AFAIK, ECU uses that wire to send a timing signal to the ignition control module, in normal operation. When it's disconnected, the ignition control module is on its own.
At low RPM, with the wire disconnected, the module operates at "0" advance and, if the RPM is increased above a certain threshold, the module advances the timing by 20deg.
The take-away from this is that, AFAIK, you can remove the ECU as a factor by disconnecting that wire; all spark generation is determined solely by other factors, e.g., reluctor wheel, ignition control module, ignition coil, and associated wiring.
If you can demonstrate the tach / ignition problem like you did in your earlier video with the ECU wire disconnected, I think you can likely disregard the ECU as a factor.
I hope somebody else reads this and keeps me honest
... on the ICM the 4 wire connector does all go back to the PCM, which is what made me start questioning the PCM, maybe it’s starting to get intermittent loss of signal through a part of the board or something?
Can pretty much rule out the 2 wire connector that goes from the back of the ICM to the coil, as I got a junkyard connector and plugged it in both sides and it’s still doing the issue(was doing it before I replaced aswell).