There were no 4.7 ratios for those diffs, or any GM truck axle housing/assembly that I'm aware of...for trucks, think there's 3.42, 3.73 (G80 diff), 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.10 (or something similar)...Here's how you can confirm your final drive ratio: Make a paint mark on your rear tire then rotate the marked tire one revolution while counting how many times the driveshaft rotates. eg, If your driveshaft made 3.75 revolutions, that would determine a 3.73 gear ratio.Yes this is my truck I’ve done everything to it besides the trans rebuild so I don’t know much about it I just know I told him I wanted a shift kit and overhaul and a couple weeks later it was done. When I first got the truck it had a bad 3-4 clutch pack.
1. Yes I replaced the yoke new unjoints all around new hardware and straps I used some doorman straps that obviously couldn’t take it so I got some through the dealer this time around and changed yoke and unjoints again because falling out and claiming around isn’t very good for the drive shaft or joints.
2. I’m not very sure I’ll be able to confined the final drive ratio he told me 4.7 just earlier but I don’t think that sounds correct IMO.
3. The wires on the harness look fine coming out of the transmission wondering if there is anyway to replace the connecter side of said harness that’s actually inside of the transmission. All clips on the outside of the harness are fine and not broken.
4. I’m still just so confused how this all happened so suddenly and how the truck will drive fine for about 10 minutes then will register the P1810 code and won’t go past second gear. P R N D all seem to work and go into gear amazing when truck is cold. Fluid is right on the top cold mark to a T. Again yes this is my truck and it’s been my baby and project with my fiance for a couple years now.
Extra- plan on getting a new daily car when I get out of basic I ship in two weeks and just overhauling the truck completely but as of now I just want to get her back on the road to enjoy her she’s old high miles she’s going to complete kick the bucket eventually. Last owners before me did not maintain the truck at all. I found this out through putting in the used motor with a friend putting in the lift kit with new front and rear end. Just everything I’ve done to the truck every time I fix something a week later something else breaks at what point do I just sell it or do a full frame off build. With 6k in the hole I’ve spent fixing it I’d of probably been better off just doing a frame off ATP.
Thanks again, Kirk.
You can replace the wiring harness with the Rostra 1993-2002 part I mentioned above - that would solve the leak there and also eliminate the possibility that the harness is the true source of your DTCs / Limp mode...again, I'd ask exactly what was done - if you don't know about automatic transmissions, you can learn.
Given you're a Tech apprentice, you'll want to know at least the basics, including servicing, diagnosis as well as some of the more frequently used terminology for relevant parts, procedures and other things related to transmissions. You may not be rebuilding them but you will likely be working on them to some extent as a Ford tech (I rebuild GM, Ford and Dodge transmissions so am familiar with all three OEMs when it comes to auto transmissions).
So here's what I'd do at this point...
1. Confirm your final drive ratio following my instructions above
2. Replace your harness and pressure switch manifold assembly; continuity test all other solenoids with a DVOM
3. Go over the underside of your truck and engine bay with a fine tooth comb looking for loose / missing / damaged wiring, grounds, etc
4. Use a bidirectional scan tool on your first test drive after the repairs - monitor the engine and transmission data to make sure the transmission is being properly commanded/controlled by the PCM (if not, that may be the problem)
5. Find out exactly what was done when the transmission was rebuilt. Refer to my 4L60E information thread for guidance and let me know if you want help framing your questions
IF that shop knew you had a lifted truck and didnt ask you about your final drive (assuming you have at least a 4.10 ratio and they already knew that) then I'd never have that shop make me a cup of coffee much less rebuild me a transmission.
Any time a prospect calls me up asking for rebuild quotes and tells me he owns a truck or SUV, first thing I ask beyond the vehicle year, make, model, symptoms is, "Is your truck lifted with big tires?".
If the answer is "Yes", the very next thing out of my mouth is "Did you upgrade the final drive and if so, to what ratio?".
If the answer is "No", I decline the job and educate the customer as to why and to put a deeper ring and pinion set(s) before blowing money on the transmission.