Yukon Duragrip/US Standard ring and pinion

[ChrsLytn]

98 K1500 8.5" 10 bolt 3.73
I got new carrier, ring and pinion.
I put the original shim, .0037 I believe on the new pinion and pressed bearing on.
I've been talking with tech support at Yukon but have been unable to get them since Wednesday before Thanksgiving.
Assuming these patterns were good, I have a backlash of 13. I guess that means I would need maybe .002 more shim on the pinion to move it closer to the ring.
If the pattern is good I don't need to change anything on the carrier.
And if that's the case I should try to save the new pinion bearing and make it a set up bearing and get another new pinion bearing or hope .002 will correct the backlash and put bearing back on?
If I get same brand of pinion bearing is the new race I've already put in ok to run?
This is the first one I've done and don't want to f*** it up. And I don't see it as a viable hobby in the future.
Thanks for your time
Thanks for your time and wisdom.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I've never built a rearend, but neither of those patterns look bad. I would like to see them more centered. I'm assuming those pictures are the same ring gear? If so, it looks like the ring gear's not centered on the carrier.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Before messing with your pinion depth any more, try moving a shim from the right side (looking at it from behind) to the left side to reduce backlash. FWIU your pattern is fine.

From page 17
"Checking Backlash
Backlash is the free movement of the ring gear with the pinion gear fixed in place. All
ring and pinion sets are matched pairs. Make sure you have a matched ring and pinion
set. Clean all parts before you start assembly. Apply a light coat of oil to all bearings.
Examine all components and remove any burrs, nicks or sharp edges that could
cause components seat improperly.
1. Set backlash to proper clearance. (See page 2)
2. Shim or adjust the ring gear away from or closer to the pinion to get the correct
backlash."

 

[ChrsLytn]

I've never built a rearend, but neither of those patterns look bad. I would like to see them more centered. I'm assuming those pictures are the same ring gear? If so, it looks like the ring gear's not centered on the carrier.

Before messing with your pinion depth any more, try moving a shim from the right side (looking at it from behind) to the left side to reduce backlash. FWIU your pattern is fine.

From page 17
"Checking Backlash
Backlash is the free movement of the ring gear with the pinion gear fixed in place. All
ring and pinion sets are matched pairs. Make sure you have a matched ring and pinion
set. Clean all parts before you start assembly. Apply a light coat of oil to all bearings.
Examine all components and remove any burrs, nicks or sharp edges that could
cause components seat improperly.
1. Set backlash to proper clearance. (See page 2)
2. Shim or adjust the ring gear away from or closer to the pinion to get the correct
backlash."

I was kind of hesitant to move the carrier over any because I thought the pattern looked pretty good. But at the same time if I can make a small adjustment on the carrier and still have a good pattern I'd rather do that than have to deal with getting the pinion gear off and back on. Thanks for the favorable o(pinion)
(Pun intended)of the pattern. I needed to hear it from someone else. I don't really want to but I'm going to do it now. I started on this project almost 2 weeks ago but I'm taking my time to avoid pissing away 500.00 worth of new s***.
I'm also tired of wrestling with it. Be a lot easier on a lift. But I ain't looking for another one to do. I appreciate your help. I'll let you know what it does.

 

[Frank Enstein]

+1 on moving the carrier to the right. That should take care of the backlash and center the pattern better.

The pattern is good as is but as long as it doesn't touch the edge of the tooth it's o.k.

Shimming the carrier may improve the pattern a bit though.

Backlash and pattern are the most important especially on the drive side.

As a final check look at the pattern on the pinion gear it should be centered on the teeth as well.

Take your time to get it right or the ring and pinion will wear quickly.

If the gears whine when you take it on it's first drive with the new gears turn right around and try again or the gears will whine their entire short, noisy lives. 3.73:1 gears should be silent.

Talk to the vendor about what lube to use and how to break the gears in properly. No towing or long trips until the break-in is complete and the fluid has been changed unless the vendor says otherwise.

Generally speaking the gear lube should be changed between 100 and 500 miles depending on what the vendor says.

Break-in is hard on the gear lube.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm also tired of wrestling with it. Be a lot easier on a lift. But I ain't looking for another one to do. I appreciate your help. I'll let you know what it does.

Yeah, we pulled the whole rear end and did it on the bench, much easier that way!

If the gears whine when you take it on it's first drive with the new gears turn right around and try again or the gears will whine their entire short, noisy lives. 3.73:1 gears should be silent.

^^^X2! I did my 4.11 swap a couple years ago, it's been quiet since day one, and I don't drive it like an old lady either

Here's what I wound up with a backlash of ~.008".

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[ChrsLytn]

Yeah, we pulled the whole rear end and did it on the bench, much easier that way!


^^^X2! I did my 4.11 swap a couple years ago, it's been quiet since day one, and I don't drive it like an old lady either

Here's what I wound up with a backlash of ~.008".

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Moving the carrier got my bl to around 8.
Pattern was still good. Tightening the pinion nut and crushing the sleeve was an adventure in itself. Had to use the floor jack to get it to finally start collapsing. Making a dot, several dots with a black Sharpie helped to see that the socket was actually turning as I was trying to get the final tighten for the preload. It's just a slow process with potential to turn to s*** and make you start over. Gotta put cover on,fill with oil and put driveshaft in and see what it do. US Std Gear manual recommended synthetic. Yukon recommended conventional and additive. I got conventional. How come new vehicles don't need to have a break in period?
Hmm? Cletus hooks up his new Z71 with 64 miles on it to his '02 Skeeter and heads to Pontchartrain.
I'm going to get a biscuit (SEC), in my van.
Appreciate y'all

 

[Erik the Awful]

How come new vehicles don't need to have a break in period?

I toured the Nissan plant in Smyrna, TN back in 1998. The cars got to the end of the assembly line and went on the factory chassis dyno for a final test. A worker locked the cars into place and plugged a cable into the OBDII connector. I don't remember what activated the throttle, but the cars screamed straight to 10,000 rpm and 100+ mph on the dyno for about twenty seconds. Then it settled down, idled, they removed all the stuff, and an employee drove it to the back lot for shipping. They break them in like a boss, not much more is needed.

 

[ChrsLytn]

Moving the carrier got my bl to around 8.
Pattern was still good. Tightening the pinion nut and crushing the sleeve was an adventure in itself. Had to use the floor jack to get it to finally start collapsing. Making a dot, several dots with a black Sharpie helped to see that the socket was actually turning as I was trying to get the final tighten for the preload. It's just a slow process with potential to turn to s*** and make you start over. Gotta put cover on,fill with oil and put driveshaft in and see what it do. US Std Gear manual recommended synthetic. Yukon recommended conventional and additive. I got conventional. How come new vehicles don't need to have a break in period?
Hmm? Cletus hooks up his new Z71 with 64 miles on it to his '02 Skeeter and heads to Pontchartrain.

I'm going to get a biscuit (SEC), in my van.
Appreciate y'all

Well, got it back together about 4:00 this afternoon. Made an easy 7.5 mile and turn around test drive, got up to maybe 50, heard some "medium" tone whining.
(Damn it) Not real loud but hearable. Got home and felt the cover. It was warm. Checked here and there with my thermal gun.
Cover 104
Housing at front of pinion 114
Housing at rear of pinion 112
Housing above pinion. 118
Don't know if anybody's got any ideal range of temperature of a rear end. Lot of variables would apply I would think.
Safe to say something be happening with the pinion though.
And had to be at Wasabi at 5:45 for the wife's late birthday party. It was good though. Sweet tea. Anyhow.
Preload is around 15 probably. I bought a 1/4" beam type torque wrench. Probably not as accurate as the dial but it was registering the change once I got to that point.
And the bl was still good. Rev to drive and drive to rev are quiet.
Taking it apart tomorrow.
I'll be gettin efficient on the tear down aspect like I did on cv axles a few years ago. O'Reilly's remans and new we're piss poor for a while. If it wasn't the knuckle messing up the boots would be cracking or a clamp be loose. But they made em good. I could change one PDQ.
I might take another short test drive in the morning. I'm sure there has to be some amount of friction going on when things are all being introduced to one another. I'm gonna get my long bar and try to listen to the bearings once I get it on some stands. I'd like to be hunting a deer or an arrowhead but that's gon have to wait. Everybody's welcome to join in on the head scratching or ass scratching if need be.

 

[ChrsLytn]

I toured the Nissan plant in Smyrna, TN back in 1998. The cars got to the end of the assembly line and went on the factory chassis dyno for a final test. A worker locked the cars into place and plugged a cable into the OBDII connector. I don't remember what activated the throttle, but the cars screamed straight to 10,000 rpm and 100+ mph on the dyno for about twenty seconds. Then it settled down, idled, they removed all the stuff, and an employee drove it to the back lot for shipping. They break them in like a boss, not much more is needed.

Somebody told me they went to a tire plant one time. Toyo or another Asian company. He said every tire they make is mounted on a wheel and way over inflated to check it's structural integrity I reckon. Makes sense. Every now and then they say you'd hear one blow. I bet your ass would still jump even if that's what you did every day. I'm sure they've got a shroud of some kind around em.
Starting to sprinkle west of Atlanta.