InsanePyro1990
OBS Enthusiast
No, I phrased that weird. I did brakes, seals and axle bearings. Even if I did them before I'm concerned I ruined them tightening the pinion nut blindly
Yoke replacement
- Thread starter InsanePyro1990
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AuroraGirl
I'm Awesome
but you havent drove with it, right? id think they would be okay if you havent
InsanePyro1990
OBS Enthusiast
I drove it 10 miles or so
When you replace the crush sleeve, you will need to pull the outer bearing anyway, to get the old crush sleeve out. Just look at it. If there are no scar's on it, it should be fine. If the outer bearing is good, then most likely the inside bearing is fine too. Bearings are not expensive, and neither are bearing races. If the outer bearing doesn't still look like it's new, the yes, replace both of them, and the races too. Bearings and races should always be changed together. The crush sleeve, helps to keep bearing preload tension, so if it's to tight, or to loose, then yes, it could damage the bearings and there races. You are going to have to pull the axles out of the carrier, to get the proper inch pound drag resistance and this needs to be in both directions. Inch pounds, NOT foot pounds. This can not be done, with the axles still in, BC this will increase the amount of drag, on the carrier. It's not something that you can just snug down by feel, to do the job correctly. On a new crush sleeve, the inch pound setting is 15 to 30 inches pounds. IMO, it's better to be closer to 30 inches pounds on a new crush sleeve, but you have to creep up on it. A little at a time. Anything over 20 inch pounds, I would call that good. Less than 20 inch pounds, I would bump the pinion nut clock wise just a little, to get more resistance, but that's just me. I built a tool to hold the yoak so that I could tighten the pinion nut a little at a time. I did NOT use an impact.
InsanePyro1990
OBS Enthusiast
So I don't need to pull the carrier? Just slide the shafts out? Can I use a digital torque wrench or do I really have to track down a beam style?
here is a grate step by step write up, on how to do the rear end correctly.
Thread 'GM 10 Bolt Rear Gear Install & Setup' https://www.truckmodcentral.com/threads/gm-10-bolt-rear-gear-install-setup.11732/
It's been a few years since I rebuilt mine. You will need to pull the carrier back out, to set the crush sleeve drag, correctly. Just look at the link I posted above.
InsanePyro1990
OBS Enthusiast
I appreciate it. YouTube is full of trash
Yeah, I looked. I wanted to post a video for you from YouTube but ran into a bunch of BS post. And I'm not 100 percent sure about this, but I think you can leave the carrier, in place, but you need to add maybe 2 more inch pounds of the resistance to the reading. So if it's 18 without the carrier, it would be 20 with the carrier, but like I said, I'm not 100 percent sure. I could be total wrong. I used a crush sleeve eliminator on my truck. When I did the diff for my 79 Corvette, I used a crush sleeve. The Corvette has the basic same set up, just no Axel shafts. It's IRS , so it has short half shafts instead of Axel shafts, like a 10 bolt. The top pic, is out of my truck. I put an Eaton truetrack in it with a set of 373 gears. When you change gears, you replace both the ring and pinion gears. The carrier bearing mount, was broken on my truck. The Vette, only had ware on the pinion bearings, and stub shafts. I replaced all of the bearings, seals, and the stub shafts. The carrier, and gears looked grate, and since it has 370 gears from the factory, there was no need to change the gears.
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