Worth buying 97 Burb?

[Fireball5657]

Couldn't find a good spot to post this, but the main issue is an engine-related one, so I figured it fit best here.

Hey all, I went to look at a 97 C1500 'Burb today, I've wanted a GMT400 or GMT800 Burb for a while, and this one may just be what I'm looking for. It's a bit of a project, but it has 140K miles, barn doors, solid green exterior with a tan interior, LT trim and pretty much loaded except for 4WD. All stock and no leaks. Stock radio, speakers, wheels, everything. Even has the original tire on the spare! So far I'm in love, but it doesn't run so that's why I'm here.

Starting with the engine issue, it isn't getting any fuel, if you spray some in the intake, then it fires off and runs for about 15 seconds, and when it does, there's no smoke, no weird noises, and no shakes, it just isn't getting fuel. Most likely a fuel pump I would think since I didn't hear it buzzing like the one on my 94 Sierra does. Never done one on a SUV before, so I'm not sure what the preferred method is, cutting a hole in the floor or dropping the tank, I'd like to do whatever is easier, but I'm bad at cutting metal. Any guidance is appreciated hah.

The guy is selling it for $800 as is, but I'm not familiar with the newer engine and interior and what goes bad. With it being so cheap, I'd really like to know what I'm getting into, it doesn't leak, oil is clean and well topped off, trans fluid is on the dark side, but it smelled okay, a bit worse than my Sierra that has 20K on the trans, but definitely not ruined or anything. The passenger door is a bit squeaky, it's tough to open, but the body lines are straight, the door doesn't sag, so I'm not sure why its so difficult. The ignition lock cylinder needs to be replaced, the key fob is missing, but it had the code for keyless entry in the glovebox, so I need to buy a new remote and reprogram it. The leather drivers seat is ripped, but the passenger seat, second row, and third row are all immaculate. The rear barn door window on the drivers side is busted, so I'd need to replace that, and that's everything I noticed in the 15 minutes I got to look at it.

So what else should I look at before I buy it next week? So far I think I can manage the issues above, but what other common failure points are there on the Vortec-era trucks? Also how can I test the transmission out and make sure that it isn't junk?

Thanks for any help guys!

 

[Schurkey]

it doesn't run so that's why I'm here.

Starting with the engine issue, it isn't getting any fuel, if you spray some in the intake, then it fires off and runs for about 15 seconds, and when it does, there's no smoke, no weird noises, and no shakes, it just isn't getting fuel. Most likely a fuel pump I would think since I didn't hear it buzzing like the one on my 94 Sierra does. Never done one on a SUV before, so I'm not sure what the preferred method is, cutting a hole in the floor or dropping the tank, I'd like to do whatever is easier, but I'm bad at cutting metal. Any guidance is appreciated hah.

Could be the fuel pump, could be the fuel pump wire harness. Could even be the fuel pump fuse. Maybe it's OUT OF GAS. Just because the pump doesn't pump, does not mean the pump is toast. (Although that's the likely situation.)

DO NOT cut a hole through the interior to access the pump. GM doesn't do this because in a roll-over collision, you don't want a ruptured fuel tank to dump 20 gallons of gasoline directly into the passenger compartment. Learn something from the Ford Pinto.

The guy is selling it for $800 as is,

What are you waiting for? You could part it out for more than that.

The leather drivers seat is ripped, but the passenger seat, second row, and third row are all immaculate.

My '97 K2500 pickup had a bigass rip on the driver's seat, right at the seam where the seat bottom and the seat side come together--right where all the wear happens as the driver slides in and out of the truck.

$200 at the upholstery shop fixed it so well I can hardly tell it was ever ripped. They found a nearly-perfect match for color and texture. I suppose the price would have been a bit more since I removed the seat for them--I just dropped off the damaged seat instead of leaving the entire truck. It was a pain in the ass, as two of the four bolts that hold the seat to the vehicle were seized and broke. But that's a rust-belt problem that perhaps you wouldn't have to deal with.

So what else should I look at before I buy it next week? So far I think I can manage the issues above, but what other common failure points are there on the Vortec-era trucks? Also how can I test the transmission out and make sure that it isn't junk?

It runs for ~15 seconds. Should be able to drop it into gear, make sure the trans engages reverse. Re-fuel, re-start, drop it into Drive.

Is the brake pedal nice 'n' firm? A few fifteen-second bursts of engine vacuum should have the power booster working.

Re-fuel and re-start the engine. Verify the Power Steering works. Have someone watch the front wheels and steering linkage, while you swing the steering wheel. Look for play in the steering mechanism. The rag joint is an epidemic problem.

Look at the upper control arm bushings. Also an epidemic problem.

The fuel injector "spider" is a high-failure item. So are the intake gaskets.

Check the undercarriage for excessive rust.

$800? If I wanted a 2WD 'Burban, I wouldn't even test it while the owner watched. You might manage to get the fuel pump running, or accidently fix something else, and he'd raise the price. Grab it. Before he sells it to someone else.

 

[Fireball5657]

Could be the fuel pump, could be the fuel pump wire harness. Could even be the fuel pump fuse. Maybe it's OUT OF GAS. Just because the pump doesn't pump, does not mean the pump is toast. (Although that's the likely situation.)

DO NOT cut a hole through the interior to access the pump. GM doesn't do this because in a roll-over collision, you don't want a ruptured fuel tank to dump 20 gallons of gasoline directly into the passenger compartment. Learn something from the Ford Pinto.


What are you waiting for? You could part it out for more than that.


My '97 K2500 pickup had a bigass rip on the driver's seat, right at the seam where the seat bottom and the seat side come together--right where all the wear happens as the driver slides in and out of the truck.

$200 at the upholstery shop fixed it so well I can hardly tell it was ever ripped. They found a nearly-perfect match for color and texture. I suppose the price would have been a bit more since I removed the seat for them--I just dropped off the damaged seat instead of leaving the entire truck. It was a pain in the ass, as two of the four bolts that hold the seat to the vehicle were seized and broke. But that's a rust-belt problem that perhaps you wouldn't have to deal with.


It runs for ~15 seconds. Should be able to drop it into gear, make sure the trans engages reverse. Re-fuel, re-start, drop it into Drive.

Is the brake pedal nice 'n' firm? A few fifteen-second bursts of engine vacuum should have the power booster working.

Re-fuel and re-start the engine. Verify the Power Steering works. Have someone watch the front wheels and steering linkage, while you swing the steering wheel. Look for play in the steering mechanism. The rag joint is an epidemic problem.

Look at the upper control arm bushings. Also an epidemic problem.

The fuel injector "spider" is a high-failure item. So are the intake gaskets.

Check the undercarriage for excessive rust.

$800? If I wanted a 2WD 'Burban, I wouldn't even test it while the owner watched. You might manage to get the fuel pump running, or accidently fix something else, and he'd raise the price. Grab it. Before he sells it to someone else.

Awesome, thanks for the advice. Didn’t even think of the downside of the hole in the floor, guess I gotta use my lift now. And I wouldn’t have thought to bother with the power steering.

and as for why I didn’t buy it right there, I checked it out on my lunch break at work and I had just gotten through dumping $300 worth of brakes, gas, and headlight bulbs into my truck. If the guy will keep it for me until I get paid, then I’ll take it home, if it’s just a fuel pump issue, then I’ll probably park the 94 and use the Burb as my daily for a while.

 

[thegawd]

I bought my first burb with a hole in the floor.... put there by my father in law. he covered it with plywood! **** man one day his pathetic rubber fuel line repair ruptured in a loop he had hiding up in there and I couldnt see any of it.... but I could smell it! it soaked the plywood!

use a tranny jack to lower this 42 gallon tank. it's easy. my rust belt owned but formerly from Texas burbs gas tank came out without any problems. busted fuel lines but that's to be expected. I dropped it last time with it completely full. tranny Jack with a bolted sheet of plywood that fits inbetween the tank straps. once the tank is free I ratchet strap it to the jack.... simple.

Al

 

[618 Syndicate]

Will it not start at all, or does it start and die? Without adding fuel to the intake.

 

[Lance Hohimer]

800 is CHEAP. I'd be all over it. The things I personally do not like about 1500's are the transmissions..HATE THE 4L60E! But that can be addressed. Not a deal breaker at all. Barn doors!? Even better. And if youre looking to customize it, Lifting OR Lowering would be sweet.

 

[Erik the Awful]

guess I gotta use my lift now

Wait, you have a lift and you were considering cutting a hole? That's crazy talk. Go ahead and dismantle the lift and ship it across town. I'll put that sucker to work! If you have a tall transmission jack, I'd try using that to lower the tank out. Years ago I did a bunch of Nissan pickup fuel tank recalls with a transmission jack. Other guys were taking an hour to lift the bed, and I was getting them done in ten minutes.

 

[thegawd]

I can honestly say that the last time I dropped my tank and replaced just the pump it only took me ten minutes. I was pissed and went back to the original ac delco because the deplhi crapped the bed in 18 months. once you do it enough times, with an impact drill or air rachet you really can drop it, disconnect the hoses, knock out the locking ring and replaced whatever inside and put it all back together in ten minutes. having the right tools for the job changes everything.

I would have to say though, if theres open fumes from a leak or anything. do not use a power tool! its not worth your life. also keep a proper fire extinguisher within an arms reach.

let's be safe.

Al

 

[618 Syndicate]

I can honestly say that the last time I dropped my tank and replaced just the pump it only took me ten minutes. I was pissed and went back to the original ac delco because the deplhi crapped the bed in 18 months. once you do it enough times, with an impact drill or air rachet you really can drop it, disconnect the hoses, knock out the locking ring and replaced whatever inside and put it all back together in ten minutes. having the right tools for the job changes everything.

I would have to say though, if theres open funes from a leak or anything. do not use a power tool! its not worth your life. also keep a proper fire extinguisher within an arms reach.

let's be safe.

Al

Safety first, then teamwork...

 

[Fireball5657]

Will it not start at all, or does it start and die? Without adding fuel to the intake.

Won't start at all, the fuel pump makes one little pathetic click and then it doesn't do anythng.

800 is CHEAP. I'd be all over it. The things I personally do not like about 1500's are the transmissions..HATE THE 4L60E! But that can be addressed. Not a deal breaker at all. Barn doors!? Even better. And if youre looking to customize it, Lifting OR Lowering would be sweet.

Yeah, my 94 K1500 is on it's third trans in 250K miles, not fun to do at all lol. I definitely wanted the barn doors, they're older looking, but I think they're unique. Don't see any modern cars with that anymore!

Wait, you have a lift and you were considering cutting a hole? That's crazy talk. Go ahead and dismantle the lift and ship it across town. I'll put that sucker to work! If you have a tall transmission jack, I'd try using that to lower the tank out. Years ago I did a bunch of Nissan pickup fuel tank recalls with a transmission jack. Other guys were taking an hour to lift the bed, and I was getting them done in ten minutes.

I was just being lazy, I've been very busy fixing things on my 94 and wanted to do the fuel pump as easily as possible. Thinking it over though, I'll just do it right, the gas needs to get siphoned out anyways, making it lighter and will let me put fresh, quality gas in it. It's been sitting for a while and if I buy it, all the fluids and filters are getting replaced before it sees the open road. Also, we both live in Choctaw, maybe I'll just load the lift up in my Sierra, drop it off, and you can do the fuel pump for me! lol

I can honestly say that the last time I dropped my tank and replaced just the pump it only took me ten minutes. I was pissed and went back to the original ac delco because the deplhi crapped the bed in 18 months. once you do it enough times, with an impact drill or air rachet you really can drop it, disconnect the hoses, knock out the locking ring and replaced whatever inside and put it all back together in ten minutes. having the right tools for the job changes everything.

I would have to say though, if theres open funes from a leak or anything. do not use a power tool! its not worth your life. also keep a proper fire extinguisher within an arms reach.

let's be safe.

Al

Well that's good to know. I try to stick with delco where I can, but sometimes it's double the price of a normal aftermarket part. Will get a Delco pump for sure though.

Thanks for all the help guys! I'm trying to scrape together the money for it as fast as I can, and if I buy it before he sells it, I'll be sure to post about it. It's a bit rough, but it's only got 140K on it, I just hope that the fuel pump is the issue and that the trans isn't junk. If it's trashed, I'll probably just clean it up and flip it as a parts truck or whatever, guess I'll find out.