WinALDL or Tunerpro help

[PlayingWithTBI]

Got an answer - it seems you'll have to modify your bin to show KRs, right now you're seeing irrelevant data.

 

[OleGreen93]

Here's your BLM history from your ride to work log. It is definitely running rich in most cells, probably due to your stumble issue and your rv cam. Once you fix your stumble you can tune your VE table to get your BLMs closer to Stoich (128 or 14.7 AFR). The PCM can only tune so far but, if your VE table is too far off, it can't get there. Dave w over in gearheadEFI developed an Accel spreadsheet that will help modify your table, but you need to fix your mechanical issues 1st.

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I started a thread there to see if anyone has a better adx file for your PCM, maybe we can get rid of the KRs...

Thanks for checking out my log file. I got my adx file from tunerpro's site. That makes sense about the KR data being strange. I used the formula it has and inserted my battery voltage as "x" and sure enough it comes out to the 22-23 KR my logs were showing. I went ahead and removed KR from the data list now that I know it isn't an issue.

From the BLM picture you posted from what I can tell the engine computer is noticing a rich mixture in the exhaust gases and trying to remove fuel from the mixture when the BLM is dropping to near 100? If this is the case this must be why my idle will slowly drop in time with the BLM dropping while in drive with foot on brake until it almost wants to stall and then the Acceleration Enrichment mode kicks in to deliver some fuel as a measure to keep the engine from shutting off. I must have weak spark not allowing the entire combustion process to be efficient. It almost has the be either the coil and/or the ICM like you stated. Another thought I had would be if the alternator is the issue? The battery voltage I'm seeing in tunerpro is around 13.1 volts or so and that is with headlights off and A/C on medium fan speed. Should my voltage be higher than that and could low charging voltage be the reason why I would have weak spark? The alternator on the truck now is about 4 years old and was a new Orielly unit at the time.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

There's a table in the bin that will adjust fuel injector pulse width based on system voltage and not for spark but, at 13.1 volts I wouldn't worry much about it. I'm still leaning towards coil and ICM. Did you try spraying the coil with water while idling to see what happens?

 

[OleGreen93]

There's a table in the bin that will adjust fuel injector pulse width based on system voltage and not for spark but, at 13.1 volts I wouldn't worry much about it. I'm still leaning towards coil and ICM. Did you try spraying the coil with water while idling to see what happens?

I haven't tried the water test with the coil yet. I went ahead and ordered an acdelco coil and ICM. Will hopefully arrive in the next couple days. I'll keep you updated on how it runs after swapping them out.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I just ran across this today. If you scroll down you'll find some .bin files for your 8625 PCM as well as adx and xdf. And even a wiring diagram! HTH

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?336-16168625-PCM-Information-E6

 

[OleGreen93]

I just ran across this today. If you scroll down you'll find some .bin files for your 8625 PCM as well as adx and xdf. And even a wiring diagram! HTH

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?336-16168625-PCM-Information-E6

Thanks a lot for all this great information. The new coil and ICM should arrive tomorrow so we’ll find out soon if that is the fix

 

[OleGreen93]

Update-

Installed the ac delco ignition coil but unfortunately no change. I haven't changed the ICM yet. I was thinking that the ICM would be one of those things that either works or doesn't but may change it this weekend to verify. Just about out of ideas on things to look at. It's a shame because the truck drives great other than the stumble at idle. Still don't understand why it would slowly lean out the fuel mixture to the point where it almost dies but the acceleration enrichment kicks in momentarily to keep it running.

I see in tunerpro my fuel pump voltage is usually over 13 volts, would this be a normal running voltage? I tested fuel pressure and have 12 psi. Trying to narrow down what few possibilities are left. If anyone has any ideas please let me know I'd really appreciate it

I uploaded a new tunerpro log driving around after changing the coil:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wvzK-XRdFBoaczkPqOOJFFsDjTQ_L-XY

 

[sbnova]

Have you hooked up a wide band 02 sensor to confirm that you are rich when the ECM thinks you are?? It sounds like maybe you aren't rich, but the ECM pulls fuel and it runs rough until it adds fuel and runs better. Just because a new sensor says it's rich doesn't mean it is rich...
I would think with blms at 100 you would be rich enough to notice the smell of fuel or see black smoke from the tail pipe.

 

[OleGreen93]

After many months I finally have a resolution to my miss/stumble at idle! I finally put a vacuum gauge on the truck and idling it would show around 17 inches vacuum but the needle was constantly fluttering over 17. To eliminate a faulty gauge I put it on another truck and the needle was solid when idling. Did some research on the fluttering needle and found some info that it could be a bad camshaft. I suspected the cam for a long time but couldn’t 100% determine if that was the issue with it having less than 40k miles on the rebuilt. Anyways, I changed the cam and lifters to a stock grind this past weekend and after breaking in the cam the truck runs perfectly. Have not put a vacuum gauge on it yet but logged some driving time in tunerpro and my blm is now always close to 128 in open and closed loop. Before 105 was about the highest it would get to. No more fuel smell out the exhaust or black smoke. The old cam didn’t appear to have any abnormal wear but I’m thinking it was worn enough to throw off the computer and oxygen sensor? I’m just glad it’s fixed and I can enjoy my truck again! Thank you everyone for your advice and help on this issue!!

 

[RawbDidIt]

After many months I finally have a resolution to my miss/stumble at idle! I finally put a vacuum gauge on the truck and idling it would show around 17 inches vacuum but the needle was constantly fluttering over 17. To eliminate a faulty gauge I put it on another truck and the needle was solid when idling. Did some research on the fluttering needle and found some info that it could be a bad camshaft. I suspected the cam for a long time but couldn’t 100% determine if that was the issue with it having less than 40k miles on the rebuilt. Anyways, I changed the cam and lifters to a stock grind this past weekend and after breaking in the cam the truck runs perfectly. Have not put a vacuum gauge on it yet but logged some driving time in tunerpro and my blm is now always close to 128 in open and closed loop. Before 105 was about the highest it would get to. No more fuel smell out the exhaust or black smoke. The old cam didn’t appear to have any abnormal wear but I’m thinking it was worn enough to throw off the computer and oxygen sensor? I’m just glad it’s fixed and I can enjoy my truck again! Thank you everyone for your advice and help on this issue!!

Did you use break in oil or a zinc additive on the rebuilt for the first 2 oil changes? Did you do that when you changed the cam this time?

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