WinALDL or Tunerpro help

[PlayingWithTBI]

Looking further, you have 23.9 Knock Retard??? You may have something wrong with your Knock Sensor...

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Also, your initial timing, with the EST wire disconnected s/b 0*

 

[OleGreen93]

Also, your initial timing, with the EST wire disconnected s/b 0*

Timing was originally set to 0* but a local shop set it to 6* when they had the truck to perform a diagnosis. That was a disaster so I got the truck back and have been determined to fix it myself. I replaced the knock sensor last night thinking the old one could have been signaling for knocks that didn't exist. The running condition didn't change.

You're right the tach is definitely off by about 200 rpm. Warm idle in park it shows around 600 rpm and in drive it shows around 200 rpm.

One thing that jumped out to me in the screenshots i posted is the coolant temperature being around 85* but the engine temp is 185*. Could this be causing the ECU to dump more fuel to the engine thinking it is still warming up?

I'm going to log some more data on my drive to work tomorrow to verify everything. Thanks for all your help!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

One thing that jumped out to me in the screenshots i posted is the coolant temperature being around 85* but the engine temp is 185*

your coolant temp is in Celsius where engine temp is Fahrenheit (85 = 185) you should be able to set that in your dash by right clicking on the readouts and select what scale you want and, when you close the dashboard, select save for next time.

Definitely set your timing back to 0*, you almost have the ability to modify your SA and VE tables (among others) with a couple more things - the BCC, a Moates Burn2 and a blank 27SF512 EEPROM chip, along with some research...

The usual disclaimer applies.

 

[sbnova]

Is this engine stock or modified?

If its stock there should be no need to modify your chip or bin file to run well. The screenshot you provided is a good start, but its a snapshot. Seeing a log would be more helpful.

Block Learn Mulitplier (BLM's) are 101, which is rich. That coincides with having a misfire- unburned fuel entering the exhaust stream .

To find a misfire, replicate the problem. If it only happens in gear, then have someone in the truck running with their foot on the brake and the truck in gear. While its misfiring take a regular test light (the old school style that looks like a screwdriver with a cord coming out of the handle. Ground the cord. Take the pointy end and pierce each plug wire boot at the distributor end. This will cause the cylinder being probed to not fire. You should note a difference when you probe each WORKING cylinder. Any cylinder you probe that fails to make a difference is not firing or contributing to combustion.

Once you isolate which cylinder or cylinders are misfiring, further diagnosis can be done to conclude your problem. Just because you find the cylinder with a misfire does not mean the problem is electrical! It could still be fuel or compression. Could be a blown head gasket, a bent valve, cracked head, clogged fuel injector for that cylinder or bank, etc etc etc

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

If its stock there should be no need to modify your chip or bin file to run well.

IMHO tuning a "stock" engine will always give you better performance and MPG. Modified engines require it.

Having said that, you can't tune out an equipment malfunction, you need to cure that first. The issue described makes me lean towards the ICM and/or coil, but data logging can help with troubleshooting.

 

[sbnova]

"IMHO tuning a "stock" engine will always give you better performance and MPG. Modified engines require it."

I totally agree

 

[OleGreen93]

Is this engine stock or modified?

If its stock there should be no need to modify your chip or bin file to run well. The screenshot you provided is a good start, but its a snapshot. Seeing a log would be more helpful.

Block Learn Mulitplier (BLM's) are 101, which is rich. That coincides with having a misfire- unburned fuel entering the exhaust stream .

To find a misfire, replicate the problem. If it only happens in gear, then have someone in the truck running with their foot on the brake and the truck in gear. While its misfiring take a regular test light (the old school style that looks like a screwdriver with a cord coming out of the handle. Ground the cord. Take the pointy end and pierce each plug wire boot at the distributor end. This will cause the cylinder being probed to not fire. You should note a difference when you probe each WORKING cylinder. Any cylinder you probe that fails to make a difference is not firing or contributing to combustion.

Once you isolate which cylinder or cylinders are misfiring, further diagnosis can be done to conclude your problem. Just because you find the cylinder with a misfire does not mean the problem is electrical! It could still be fuel or compression. Could be a blown head gasket, a bent valve, cracked head, clogged fuel injector for that cylinder or bank, etc etc etc

This engine has been rebuilt and bored .040 over with about 35k miles on rebuild. Other than an rv cam and high volume oil pump it is stock. The heads recently came off due to a blown head gasket (exhaust gas in coolant). We believe head gasket failed because a shop replaced the ICM and coil and mixed up #2 and #4 spark plug wires on the distributor and truck was driven close to 15k miles like that. Virtually every sensor and ignition component has been replaced. I wish I could have gotten tunerpro working before changing all these parts but can't complain about that now. I'll be doing a compression test this weekend to rule that out. When heads were off, all lifters looked brand new and the pistons all looked the same as far as buildup.

I recorded about 15 minutes worth of data on my way to work this morning. Is there a good way I could share the file with you guys? I'm still wondering why the spark knock is around 23. It immediately had 247 knock counts when the data stream first connected but no additional knock counts on the entire drive to work.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

This engine has been rebuilt and bored .040 over with about 35k miles on rebuild. Other than an rv cam and high volume oil pump it is stock.

Tuning will definitely help with your rv cam. Here's a link to Moates website where you can get the 27SF512 chip and the Burn2. There's a lot of different options there and good info.

http://www.moates.net/

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm still wondering why the spark knock is around 23

That is weird, maybe you can try a different definition (adx) file and see if that changes.