where to hook-up trans temp guage in 94 K1500??

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LVJJJ

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Just read the thread from Dec 1st regarding hooking up my trans temp gage, but it was for a newer unit than 1994. My fuse box doesn't look the same. Was thinking I'd scotchlock the pink-black wire for 12 volt power. Then gotta find a panel light wire to hook into. Any one done this?

I had my fluid flushed, pan dropped and installed a Derale bung in the side of the pan to screw the sending unit into. So I'll have good readings. Gage is Autometer. Gotta keep track of temp as now have a 383 stoker which will test the 4L60E. Transmission is in good shape, no metal in the pan, shifts are solid.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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One caution, don't use a "scotchlock" connector, they will corrode with time and lose connection. Then you'll be chasing down ghosts.
 

DirtBag

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One caution, don't use a "scotchlock" connector, they will corrode with time and lose connection. Then you'll be chasing down ghosts.

Fact or fiction? I've been using 3M Scotchlocks for years, both recreationally and professionally and have never seen one fail. I've cut some out of pedestals that were over 20 years old and had seen that many winters and summers and they would ohm out perfectly. I've installed 100's of stereos using the bigger blue SL's and never had an issue....IMO they are a fantastic connector that was designed to withstand a lot of abuse.
 

RDF1

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Id say the 3M brand is made out of a better material than the no name ones. Ive had issues with the cheap ones but never with a 3M. But i always try to use but crimp with heat shrink.

I just probe wires till i find one thats hot with key on. then find out where the fuse for it is just incase something happens you wont be all day trying to sort it out.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Fact or fiction?
Fact, I've had them on a goose neck where the clearance lights started flickering while driving down the road. I traced it to the scotchlocks where they split the feed to each individual light. Soldered the splices together and had no issues for years.
 

LVJJJ

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Awesome, that's what I've been doing, found a pink-black wire that fits the bill. Was just hoping someone had found some good useable wires in a 94.

Shouldn't have mentioned Scotchlock cause that's all the response I'm getting, its okay though. The Scotchlock won't corrode cause its inside up under the dash, have never had one do that. I did remove a couple from my trailer brakes wires, but just as a precaution cause thought it would be better to have shrink wrap over the wires.
 

L29Sub

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Use a fuse accessory piggyback off the radio switched fuse. You don't cut wires, and it's fused. They are at all auto parts stores.
Be careful attaching to unknown purpose wires. Create gremlins
Scotch locks work ok in dry environment. I've traced hundreds of marine intermittants related to those things. The absolute worst place for them is trailer pigtail wiring. I'm not a fan of any splicers that scarf the wire. I don't like unsealed crimp slices either.... [emoji34] IMHO

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LVJJJ

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L29, thanks for reminding me, used those on my '65 Chevy Van and kinda forgot about the accessory fuse blocks, think I got them at NAPA.
 

LVJJJ

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So L29, I can't find the radio connector on the fuse block, they are all lableled with colors. Can't find a fuse box diagram in my Chilton's manual. Is the electrical system for the '94 available on line somewhere or on this forum?
 
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