What's the difference-radiators.

[Dariusz Salomon]

Just be aware just because it says “U.S. Seller” only means it’s shipping from U.S.
Probably from China!

Yes-fully aware of that-I only posted this particular link as an example of what I'm talking about here. It's near impossible nowadays to get away from something made in China unfortunately as nearly all manufacturers put profit first.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Yeah-the issue with my tanks is around the ports and I read few pieces on how people tried to address the issue and to lil success too.
Anyways-to push on with the radiators subject-anybody used these or similar to these-and what is your opinion? I read some opinions on Summit-some love it,some had to get adapters,some said to be careful when installing near heat sources as they're lined with thin plastic so extra heat shields/heat isolation were neaded.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
And also-what's your opinion on additional tranny coolers-I know a lot depends on climate you live in,work load etc, but just for general use-no towing but occasional long drive to hot climates-to do or not really beneficial?

I found the thread here that adresses the tranny cooling so let's just focus on flexi lines-unless of course you wanna have your saying on coolers-feel free.

 

[Erik the Awful]

If you're willing to run a separate transmission cooler and make your own mounting brackets, this is what I put in my Jaguar.

Speedway Chevy SBC/BBC Universal Aluminum Radiator, 31 Inch Wide

Our line of universal crossflow aluminum Chevy radiators make it easy for budget-minded racers to get a professional-quality, no compromises aluminum racing radiator. Performs Under Pressure Constructed of lightweight, 100% aluminum, we furnace braze the radiator assembly for maximum durability...

www.speedwaymotors.com

I'm guessing that they're probably willing to ship to the UK.

 

[RichLo]

Search for a K3500 radiator without the raised filler neck, It'll fit in any GMT400 with a custom top mount or an OEM K3500 top mount. This is what I did in my 93 K1500 5.0, HUGE radiator but I never have any problem cooling, lol.

Here is one example:

More Information for FVP RAD1696

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Search for a K3500 radiator without the raised filler neck, It'll fit in any GMT400 with a custom top mount or an OEM K3500 top mount. This is what I did in my 93 K1500 5.0, HUGE radiator but I never have any problem cooling, lol.

Here is one example:

More Information for FVP RAD1696

Had I seen it yesterday lol...

 

[Schurkey]

anybody used these or similar to these-and what is your opinion? I read some opinions on Summit-some love it,some had to get adapters,some said to be careful when installing near heat sources as they're lined with thin plastic so extra heat shields/heat isolation were neaded.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Using hose when metal tubing would work...is crazy. OEM double-wall seamless tubing is lighter, more-durable, enormously less expensive, and less likely to abrade itself or things it would happen to rub against. Also more resistant to damage from roadway debris being thrown-up against it.

There's no good reason to use hose for that application.

And also-what's your opinion on additional tranny coolers-I know a lot depends on climate you live in,work load etc, but just for general use-no towing but occasional long drive to hot climates-to do or not really beneficial?

No towing? Half-ton, not carrying a perpetual heap of crap in the bed? Smart enough to leave the torque converter locked-up as much as practical? Absolutely no reason for an additional cooler. The one in the radiator tank is sufficient.

If the vehicle is run hard enough that the converter clutch won't engage...an extra cooler could be beneficial.

I know a guy that doesn't consider his truck "loaded" unless the thing trails crap like a zombie leaving body-parts as it stumbles along. HIS auto-trans trucks might need an extra trans cooler. The beds carry a load level with the bed-sides 100% of the time--his tools, crap he thinks he may need someday, crap he's too lazy to unload. Then when he "loads" the truck...

The 1/2-ton

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The 3/4-ton (Viewed through my side mirror, as I'm the "lead car" in this parade.)

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[1998_K1500_Sub]

I know a guy that doesn't consider his truck "loaded" unless the thing trails crap like a zombie leaving body-parts as it stumbles along.

Uh huh…

I took this picture at a gas station in Chandler AZ on Feb 26, 2015

Magnificent

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[Dariusz Salomon]

Ok thanks for it-and what about the oil cooler lines? I found this thread where poeople ***** about them leaking over and over again. Saw a bunch of videos too. I'm asking since I'm gonna change the lot with radiator and need to know what's the best path to happiness(fit and forget)
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-install-an-oil-cooler-lines.30454/

 

[Schurkey]

When I put a radiator in my '97 K2500 7.4L, I had problems getting the lower oil cooler hose off the radiator.

Those hoses may or may not leak on my truck. It doesn't get driven enough to notice; and when I bought it the power steering leaked terribly. That side of the engine compartment is a slimy mess.

Anyway, I had to cut the steel tube in that hose assembly, remove the radiator with the stub-pipe still attached, and then free the hose/threaded fitting once the radiator was out of the vehicle. I put it back together with a 1/2" compression union rather than buy a new hose.

I'm told the Dorman aftermarket replacements use aluminum tubing where the original equipment and ACDelco replacements are steel tubing. In both cases, they've crimped the tubing to sections of rubber hose. That's the same way they build PS hoses which take more than ten times the pressure as the oil cooler hoses. I have no idea why the oil cooler hoses have such a bad reputation. One wonders if it's the hose assemblies leaking, or the seals/fittings at the ends.

Point is, maybe you want to use a car-wash pressure wand to spray-clean the hoses, adapters, etc. and drive the truck to see where the leak is actually coming from.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

When I put a radiator in my '97 K2500 7.4L, I had problems getting the lower oil cooler hose off the radiator.

Those hoses may or may not leak on my truck. It doesn't get driven enough to notice; and when I bought it the power steering leaked terribly. That side of the engine compartment is a slimy mess.

Anyway, I had to cut the steel tube in that hose assembly, remove the radiator with the stub-pipe still attached, and then free the hose/threaded fitting once the radiator was out of the vehicle. I put it back together with a 1/2" compression union rather than buy a new hose.

I'm told the Dorman aftermarket replacements use aluminum tubing where the original equipment and ACDelco replacements are steel tubing. In both cases, they've crimped the tubing to sections of rubber hose. That's the same way they build PS hoses which take more than ten times the pressure as the oil cooler hoses. I have no idea why the oil cooler hoses have such a bad reputation. One wonders if it's the hose assemblies leaking, or the seals/fittings at the ends.

Point is, maybe you want to use a car-wash pressure wand to spray-clean the hoses, adapters, etc. and drive the truck to see where the leak is actually coming from.

From what I've seen so far the problem is the fittings on the oil filter adapter. I gotta think how to approach the subject-maybe this isn't a bad idea?

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