What tune up parts do you use on your tbi engine?

[User_name]

I have a Dewalt grease gun because most of my power tools are a mix of kobalt and Dewalt. The 5ah batteries are stellar

 

[gsuburban]

I am now the proud owner of a 1995 c2500.
Tbi350/nv4500, 8 foot bed, 145,000 miles

Looking to do plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, grease front end, change gear oil, change trans oil
I would like to make this truck last as long as possible.
What do you guys recommend? Got part numbers?

What type of fluid and how much goes in the nv4500 as well?
Thanks,
Shannon

Best practice is to use AC Delco or Genuine GM parts vs. just any aftermarket brand especially with sensors for TBI. Oxygen sensors are very important to use only GM, Delco or Delphi (same as Delco).
Much of the auto parts industry are made in China however, any GM parts department will sell you a genuine AC Delco part but its also made in China so, find a parts house that sells AC Delco parts or sources them and save money on the retail priced dealership parts. Rockauto has lots of GM/Delco/Delphi part choices. I wouldn't spend much time in those modern auto parts places like Auto Zone and O'Reilly etc. as they will likely sell aftermarket. Find an old school independent auto parts store who can source parts from several suppliers to meet your needs vs. modern parts houses who sell made in China exclusively. Regarding air, fuel, oil filters...use Delco or Wix XP filters. Regarding lube...use what its supposed to...5W-30 I'd guess and if you want it use full synthetic such as Mobil 1 and only use the regular oil, not "RV oil" or "high mileage" oil. The axles and transmission/transfer case can use synthetic fluids too however, the transmission should be "drained" as usual and not "pumped" out. You want the torque converter to retain some of the old fluid to mix with the new but change it again after 3,000 miles or so. You do not want to put 100% new fluid into a trans that might have not been serviced regularly or it may cause issues with the frictions and seals. Once you have a couple of regular fluid changes done, the third time would be best to move over to 100% synthetic. Auto transmission fluids really should be done every 25,000 to 30,000 miles with the correct filter. Best to use a legitimate trans rebuilder shop as many "quick change" shops tend to put in the wrong filters as there are several versions to trucks, SUV's, 4x4, shallow pan, deep pan etc. If the seller supplied you with the glove box owners manual...it will have all of the fluid specs listed. Use those and pick a brand such as Mobil 1 and stick with that brand forward. p.s. engine oil and filter changes every 7,000 miles is best.

 

[udidwht]

As for tune up parts use AC Delco or Delphi for stuff such as cap, rotor, pick up coil, plugs, ICM. Another good plug is Autolite for the BBC. Don't use Iridium plugs for TBI set ups.

Wires I use NAPA Beldin Edge heavy duty ceramic 8.5mm. Oil I use either Valvoline VR-1 Racing 10w-30 conventional or Mobil 1 Extended Perf. 10w-30 with a Mobil 1 Ext. Perf. filter.

 

[TreeGeared]

Lots of great advice. The NV4500 takes a specific gm lube due to the syncro material. It is pricey but substituting can ruin the trans.

One other simple item is the throttle body gaskets. They are cheep and easy to change out. Vacuum leaks can be a headache.

The other thing I have had to do is remove the EGR valve and clean out the cavity in the intake. A flat head screwdriver and a shop vac work well. Otherwise I would get the EGR code on longer trips.

 

[Joe Dirte]

I ran the jegs tune up kit I think when i had my silver 91 caprice.... wish wouldn't have hit ice in that car.

 

[Schurkey]

the transmission should be "drained" as usual and not "pumped" out. You want the torque converter to retain some of the old fluid to mix with the new but change it again after 3,000 miles or so. You do not want to put 100% new fluid into a trans that might have not been serviced regularly or it may cause issues with the frictions and seals.

Myth.

I change as close to 100% of the fluid as I'm able. There is NO benefit to retaining old, contaminated, depleted fluid. That crap needs to be GONE. It does nothing but contaminate the fresh fluid.

If you have ten quarts of sour milk, and you dump five quarts then add five quarts of fresh milk, what do you have? Ten quarts of sour milk plus five more in the drain pan.

Therefore, I drop a cooler tube and aim the open end into a drain pan, run the engine, use the trans pump to empty the pan. Shut off engine. Remove and clean the pan, install fresh filter and reinstall pan. Drop ~5 quarts of fresh fluid in the pan via the dipstick tube, open multiple more quarts and put them in easy reach. Start engine again, watch fluid color/condition as it squirts into the drain pan. Dump fluid down the dipstick tube as fast as it'll flow. When the fluid coming out of the cooler tube looks virgin-new, shut off engine, connect cooler tube again, start engine and top-off fluid as needed.

I "expect" to need 15 quarts of fluid on any given service; but that does vary with trans capacity and fluid condition.

 

[RedneckWithPaychecks]

My practice for replacing fluids: Don't leave any of the old fluid there. It'll be healthier with new -insert fluid here-, rather than diluted -insert fluid here-.