What is this bolt?

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BigReb95

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I know, it shifts the T case nothing with front diff. Is there a wiring diagram that has info on splicing what I have now to the 98 version?
 

Rocket Surgeon

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I have a 97 and 98, but I verified my 97 was swapped to electric actuator and the wires were already changed. It is fast and efficient, allegedly the thermal took longer to actuate.

This may help:
 
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BigReb95

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So I read some posts on here about converting to electric actuator. Basically all I need is dorman 600-600 harness?
 

Schurkey

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Should be good-to-go, if you either have the spacer you can dig out of the '98 housing, or that actuator doesn't need one.

I've never done this conversion. If I'd have known about it when my thermal actuator quit working all those years ago, I'd have upgraded. But now I have a "lifetime warranty" thermal unit; so it's unlikely that I'll switch.
 

BigReb95

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Ok thank you. If thats the case since its a whole diff and housing from the 98 w/electric actuator, I'll just wire the harness up in there and should be good.
My whole truck is basically "lifetime warrantied" as well. I been working at parts store for 12 years and my warranty file is huge. Since I've owned it I've had to dump money into it. Crate motor, I rebuilt transmission, t case, whole front end, brakes, every sensor and external part, rewire engine bay, front axles, shocks, tires, not counting extras like hidden winch, lift, custom bent and welded 3 inch exhaust, i mean the list goes on. I feel like the truck has been telling "replace everything in me front to back." Literally.
 

BigReb95

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For the U Joint, I have an aluminum 1 piece shaft. I read on here 447 or 448 moog, but which one would work with the 14 bolt?

Actually I think I figured out I would need the 448. 1.188 cap on yoke, 1.063 on driveshaft. I think.
 
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BigReb95

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It looks like someone already upgraded the my truck to electric. Never even looked.
 

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