What do you think of this Burb?

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Hi,

I used to own a 98 Tahoe and used it to pull a grossly oversized A-Frame style pop-up trailer that we still have (18' long, 2000lbs empty, about 3200lbs loaded + 2 adults, 3 smaller kids, and gear in truck). I sold it, and for some reason I'm looking at another GMT400 that I don't really need.

The one I'm eyeballing is a 95 1500 Suburban 2WD. (see link).

My questions:
1. how does the TBI motor compare with the Vortec that I'm used to? Is it going to be too pokey on the highway?

2. How do I tell if the Burb has a factory tow package? It has a brake controller and hitch, plus oil cooler lines to the radiator, but I don't know if they all have them.

3. Anything I should look out for? I took a peak and the body is dry, interior is good with strong mildew smell so leaking water, drove and sounded ok, but will need some old truck sorting.

4.As our main family vehicle now we have a 2018 FLEX with factory tow package (4500lbs max.). I don't need a truck really, but I sort of like the idea - so what would you use - a larger heavier 25 year old truck with 200hp but more torque or a much more modern car with more hp, better brakes and safety, but lighter with shorter wheelbase?

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/rds/ctd/d/surrey-1995-gmc-suburban-1500-slt-2wd/7183650493.html
 

DerekTheGreat

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If you're used to modern cars, that truck will feel pokey. It'll do the job but being an automatic and carrying the weight of the Suburban body around you'll most likely slam it as most do. Torque is what gets the job done, and that truck will do a better job towing than the FWD Flex will but it isn't going to feel the same. I drive an '89 K1500 with a 350 TBI and 3.73 gears. However, it's a stick and a regular cab shortbox, so significantly lighter than the 'burban. In the past month I've towed in excess of 4,000 lbs with it with no complaints other than I wish the trailers had brakes as the truck's aren't really up to the task if towing that weight on a regular basis. Don't know how an automatic would tow, I hate 'em..

Anyway, that's just too damn much F'in money for that truck. I hate stealerships too. All they did was buff that one out, throw some tire shine on it and clean the interior. No way I'd pay $6,000 for that, you shouldn't either. Tow package be damned lol. EDIT: If you're looking for a dedicated tow rig, step up to a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. You'll be glad you did.
 
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SUBURBAN5

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From my experience check the codes in the glovebox should have the code for tow package. Otherwise you can check to see if it has the factory hitch, factory harness, aux trans cooler, and trans/oil cooler in radiator. Gotta know what your looking for because I got most of that stock for my 98 burb. Also I hear the vortec more powerful then the TBI. Never owned a tbi but almost every other thread is about the vortec 5.7 vs tbi 5.7. Also if you didnt know 95 I hear was the oddball yeah for gmt400.
 

east302

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Here are the rear axle RPO codes, check the glovebox label.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

PlayingWithTBI

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When I was modifying my little home made utility trailer for hauling lumber, I did some research for a single axle trailer without brakes so I could get it registered. Max gross weight rating in AZ (and most states for that matter) is 3,000# so, I rated it that and got it registered. According to this map. I see BC is 4,000#? I don't use it very much or I'd put brakes on it anyway. The brakes on my 88 RCSB aren't that great.

https://www.readybrake.com/state-towing-laws.html
 

stutaeng

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Why did you sell your Tahoe? It had the 5.7 vortec, right? 3,200 lb trailer does not sound like it was overloaded. Depending on axle ratio. I think the biggest challenge with the Tahoes is the short wheelbase. A suburban is definitely better for towing, all else being equal due to longer wheelbase.

But going from 5.7 Vortec Tahoe (lighter vehicle) to a 5.7 TBI suburban (heavier vehicle) is probably not a good proposition. Not that the TBIs are bad; you'll probably still be within the towing capacity of the suburban.

It's just that 200 Hp vs 250 Hp is going to be noticeable if they are/were same axle ratios. I'd probably pass, unless you can hook up your trailer and go for a drive and be happy the way it tows.

Too bad you are not in the States. Texas has plenty of GMT 400 suburbans in the '96-99 era for around the $3500 mark, nicely kept too!
 

DerekTheGreat

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That's a low miles vehicle, and if it's not rusty, it's probably worth the price.... the OP is in Canada, not down south. It is only a 2wd, However.

Not in my mind. Says to me it sat, and if a dude or dudette wants to pay extra for that, by all means. They'll get the added bonus of chasing after leaks and other things which fail as a result of being driven. I'd rather buy one with 150k+ on it for <$3,500 and take the money I save & blow it on hookers and blow instead. Nothing special about that rig other than the oddball year. Just a run of the mill 1/2 ton 'burb to me in an equally bland color.
 

stutaeng

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Not a big fan of this channel, but this guy towed his "heavy" trailer from Texas to Washington. Looks like 5.7 TBI did just fine.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The difference on towing with this truck is that you'll be revving at lower RPM, since that's where the TBI makes its power. Unlike a newer V6 SUV with a bazillion number of tranny gears, any push of the gas pedal and they want to rev to the Moon, and that's driving empty, LOL. To me they are annoying as heck!
 
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Thanks for the comments and replies.

1. Yep I'm in Canada - so that price is around 4500USD and mileage is like 88,000 miles. Where I am rust isn't a huge issue as we only get maybe 2 weeks of snow/year, at best.

I get that sitting is an issue, but as long as major seals aren't done, I'd rather fix up the small stuff than get into a worn out interior and drive train. It looked dry underneath from a oil perspective other than the oil cooler lines. Saying this, who knows, maybe the rear diff is empty for all I know...

2. Why did I sell my Tahoe - good question! I had no troubles with the trailer, but the miles were getting up there, we just had another kid so I wouldn't be using it for at least a year (not to mention COVID now), and our AWD could do a minimal job towing for short runs.

3. Most of the GMT400/GMT800 up here are really high miles or sh*t kicked and worn out, while stepping up to the GMT900 means a big price jump.

4. Since I don't need anything for winter, the smart play would be really patient and wait for a nice clean GMT800 Suburban/Yukon XL - a bit newer/more modern than the 400, but less complex/expensive than the 900. Still, I just like the 400 era - they look nice and honest, drive well, and parts are dirt cheap.
 
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