What do OEM wheel / lug nuts look like on 8-lug wheels?

[jvp367]

Since my 23 year old 8-lug steel wheels were extremely rusted (from rust-belt salt) I purchased a much better condition set of (supposedly) OEM replacement wheels from a guy on Craigslist. I sanded the 'new' wheels, painted them, and had new tires installed. Fine. No issues in terms of drivability (after 100 miles).

BUT - I just noticed the rear wheels have very little thread engagement when using the OEM lug nuts (installed properly, cone side inward). The front wheels seem fine (plenty of thread engagement). I have no recollection of what the thread engagement was prior to the wheel swap.

So, my question to you guys is: does ANYONE have a pic of what OEM steel wheels / lug nuts should look like on a stock 1998 K2500 Suburban, especially on the rear wheels?

 

[Caman96]

Just Google 1998 K2500 Suburban.

 

[Caman96]

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[Trio]

Just Google 1998 K2500 Suburban.

I think he is wanting to see the thread engagement of the lug nuts; i.e. with the center cap removed.

 

[Caman96]

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Wouldn’t it be just like my 96 K1500. Same lug nuts right? Make believe there’s 8!

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

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Wouldn’t it be just like my 96 K1500. Same lug nuts right? Make believe there’s 8!

Yes that looks like the nuts on Rawhide....
If you need me to, I can get a picture of the front wheel in the morning. I still have the center cap on the rear wheels, but it looks the same on the back. I pulled my "new" spare off the rear axle of a '98 C2500 with a full floater, so I knew it would fit.

 

[jvp367]

Caman96: Thanks for your photo. To the uninitiated, your photo (like my truck) looks like there is a 1/4" gap between the lug nut and the wheel stud (phenomenal condition, BTW). This is what I intpreted as being radically 'off' from my expectations, although that now seems to be normal, shockingly.

I actually wonder how many threads are 'really' engaged.

At any rate, I guess I can still use my Suburban as a tow vehicle (for lighter loads).

Thanks everyone!

 

[Caman96]

Caman96: Thanks for your photo. To the unimitated, your photo (like my truck) looks like there is a 1/4" gap between the lug nut and the wheel stud (phenomenal condition, BTW). This is what I intpreted as being radically 'off' from my expectations, although that now seems to be normal, shockingly.

I actually wonder how many threads are 'really' engaged.

At any rate, I guess I can still use my Suburban as a tow vehicle (for lighter loads).

Thanks everyone!

They’re engaged as much as any lug nut. The gap you see is the external thread to wheel. The actual threads that tighten on the inside grab fully. They’re just kinda weird with the external threads for the screw on plastic caps.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

They’re engaged as much as any lug nut. They’re just kinda weird with the external threads for the screw on plastic caps.

Yes they do look weird compared to the old style lug nuts that are even with the end of the stud, or the stud sticks out some. But I know they're tight on the front wheels on the big truck. And I had to lean on my lug wrench a bit to break them loose, and also on the spare donor truck in the yard. I guess they have to be longer than"normal" to have enough meat for the hex, since the cap threads take up some of the space that the hex would normally occupy. These also seem to be the same nuts the PY0 wheels use, going by what I saw at the same yard. Which is good, because then you can use the 400 cover and nut caps with the newer wheels. I like the looks of them better anyway.....

 

[jvp367]

Gentlemen. Thanks for the info!