Welding Nuts on Headers Question

[SweetNLo]

I bought shorty Summit headers for my Vortec 350. The exhaust manifold had studs on it making it easier to connect to the head pipe. The new setup up simply has new bolts and nuts to connect to the head pipe. I'm thinking of welding nuts to the collector of the headers to make it easier to tighten the bolts. Has anyone tried this method with success? Any advice on making this job a little easier? Thank you!

 

[thinger2]

Havent done it in that particular situation but in general, that will really depend on how good of a welder you are and how good is the welder you are using.
If it's a true Mig welder and you are using shielding gas it's entirely possible.
Just practice on some scrap first
Just know that you will need to clean off the coating so if they are ceramic I wouldn't.
It will make it rust
Make sure to use weldable nuts. Not plated.
And know that they are gonna rust too
And don't get it so hot the flange warps
If it's a Harbor Freight cheesy mig, forget about it.
Even if you don't blow through there won't be much weld penetration and the spatter from them is truly ridiculious.
It's because of the design of the pos and you really can't do anything much about it.

 

[Madscientist]

Bolt it together and have everything tight, weld the nuts, remove bolts and put anti seize on them during reassembly.

 

[SweetNLo]

Havent done it in that particular situation but in general, that will really depend on how good of a welder you are and how good is the welder you are using.
If it's a true Mig welder and you are using shielding gas it's entirely possible.
Just practice on some scrap first
Just know that you will need to clean off the coating so if they are ceramic I wouldn't.
It will make it rust
Make sure to use weldable nuts. Not plated.
And know that they are gonna rust too
And don't get it so hot the flange warps
If it's a Harbor Freight cheesy mig, forget about it.
Even if you don't blow through there won't be much weld penetration and the spatter from them is truly ridiculious.
It's because of the design of the pos and you really can't do anything much about it.

I appreciate the advice!

 

[SweetNLo]

Bolt it together and have everything tight, weld the nuts, remove bolts and put anti seize on them during reassembly.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[mattillac]

FWIW, I recently replaced the nuts/bolts connecting my shorty hedders to the y pipe (1999 5.7).

After many years of use, the connection (both sides) was leaking pretty bad.

The original stainless bolts broke pretty easily when attempting to tighten them.

So I was glad the nuts weren't welded.

Only extra hand I needed was on the passenger side, needed to have someone hold one nut from from top with socket/long extension and ratchet (not enough room to swing a box wrench / fit it squarely on one of those passenger side nuts).

Otherwise I was able to do the job myself from underneath using a box wrench to hold the (top) nuts.

 

[SweetNLo]

FWIW, I recently replaced the nuts/bolts connecting my shorty hedders to the y pipe (1999 5.7).

After many years of use, the connection (both sides) was leaking pretty bad.

The original stainless bolts broke pretty easily when attempting to tighten them.

So I was glad the nuts weren't welded.

Only extra hand I needed was on the passenger side, needed to have someone hold one nut from from top with socket/long extension and ratchet (not enough room to swing a box wrench / fit it squarely on one of those passenger side nuts).

Otherwise I was able to do the job myself from underneath using a box wrench to hold the (top) nuts.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Schurkey]

My headers had thread inserts on the flanges that connect to the "Y" pipe.

If the bolts seize in the threads, you've got problems.

When I had to repair the flange on one side, I made sure to NOT weld nuts back in. I use regular bolts and brass nuts. Some folks use stainless.

Worse comes to worst, cut the bolts and it's a simple matter to replace the non-welded nuts. No re-threading rusted but welded/permanent nuts.

 

[BlkBty]

I mentioned this to the shop that put my exhaust on after I installed my shorty headers. Guy agreed it was logical but not a good idea. Said he’s cut so many corroded bolts off over the years I would be kicking myself down the road and being ceramic, don’t compromise the integrity. The upper inside passenger bolt is a booger to get to but I got it eventually. Had wife hold extension on it from up top/side while I tightened from below. That was the only one a 2nd person came in handy.

 

[SweetNLo]

My headers had thread inserts on the flanges that connect to the "Y" pipe.

If the bolts seize in the threads, you've got problems.

When I had to repair the flange on one side, I made sure to NOT weld nuts back in. I use regular bolts and brass nuts. Some folks use stainless.

Worse comes to worst, cut the bolts and it's a simple matter to replace the non-welded nuts. No re-threading rusted but welded/permanent nuts.

Thanks for the tip.