Weight Reduction...

Discussion in 'Street Chat / Timeslips' started by bsn1989, Jun 11, 2018.

  1. Fukitol

    Fukitol Newbie

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    Not sure how far you are willing to go, but removing the inner fenders on the front will take some weight off and moving the battery to the bed will be beneficial as far as weight transfer and hook up.
     
  2. Fukitol

    Fukitol Newbie

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    My bad, you already removed inner fenders.
     
  3. Fukitol

    Fukitol Newbie

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    Could also look into light weight tubular control arms and a fiberglass front bumper
     
  4. Vodka0tter

    Vodka0tter I'm Awesome

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    yes, get the front bumper off and the brackets. Seats weigh a ton, and wheels - wheels... You want some 15" for the track anyway so you get some squish. ABS can add a bit and if you have A/C thats alot. Move the batty back, fog lamps, manual window cranks, no console, no big fat sub speaker/amps, gut the bed go aluminium braces, go lightweight aluminum or glass fab dash, upper/lower control arms, loose the leaf springs and go 4 bar, flange the exhaust so its easy to drop at the track, skin the tailgate, lighten the front frame rails (if you drop the bumper), core and aluminum brace for the hood skin or glass hood, glass fenders, lighten up the inner fenders, driveshaft... Just look and decide; comfort, safety, practicality and function. Where can you live with out one of these when you look at every part on the truck.
     
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  5. 454cid

    454cid I'm Awesome

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    I would encourage you not to compromise safety just to get a better timeslip, if this isn't going to be a track only vehicle. A better timeslip isn't going to be very useful in a collision on the street. I'd keep things like the steel bumper and all the frame up front.
     
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  6. RichLo

    RichLo I'm Awesome

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    I agree with this, on my 75% track car I couldn't bring myself to gut out the doors in case of a side-impact for the 25% I'm driving on the street.
     
  7. Spookers

    Spookers Newbie

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    Definitely remove the old sound deadened, mine held in water from idk where (likely a build up of condensation/melted snow off boots) it started to rust the floor but I caught it early and repainted it, mine weighed about 15lbs in a reg cab but it was pretty wet, if you keep steel body you could "Swiss cheese" and dimple die the inside of the fenders and box, the rad support could be completely taken out and a tubular one fabbed up, could try synthetic oil in the trans to help make shifts easier, could cut the frame off behind the rear shackle mounts (even shorter if you 4-link it)

    Good to see another long box trying to go fast!
     
  8. Moparmat2000

    Moparmat2000 I'm Awesome

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    3800 lbs isnt really that heavy these days. To give you an idea my 2007 mustang GT is 3600 lbs stock, my all steel body 67 barracuda coupe is only 3,000. All that extra plastic and wiring adds up lol. Its hard to believe the 51 year old pony car is that much lighter than the new one with all its plastic.

    If dedicated drag truck. Yep put battery in the bed near the tailgate, ditch the big side mount fuel tank, ditch the spare tire and mount, put a fuel cell where the spare tire was. Do this all for weight transfer and to keep truck "square" weight wise. Shit can all the insulation, and jack paraphernalia since you ditched the spare tire. Lots of lightweight race 'glass. Plexiglass windows etc.
     
  9. Spookers

    Spookers Newbie

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    If you were still wanting stock fuel tank, look into a
    dorman 576-318. It's a rear mount tank 31gal.
     
  10. RDF1

    RDF1 I'm Awesome

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    I finally weighed mine.
    Kinda dissapointed tho.
    4100#
    I'll have to go check it at another scale one day.

    The turbo, 4L80E, 4" stainless exhaust, Intercooler, and toolbox doesn't help much tho.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
     

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