Water in oil need help

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Treyes

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So I'm currently trying to buy a 89 c1500 but in the description it says the oil has water in it is that something serious and should avoid purchasing the vehicle or could it be fixed the truck is going for $800 and its in great shape except for the water in the oil but what do y’all think is it worth it? The engine is a 5.7 v8 if that helps
 

Schurkey

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Water-in-oil
Best case: Failed PCV system.

Coolant-in-oil:
Best Case: Intake gasket failure.
Worst Case: Cracked block.

Better find out FOR SURE if they mean "coolant in the oil".

I wouldn't pay $800 for a two wheel drive '89 with a potentially popped engine. I might pay $800 for a 4WD '89 with a popped engine, but only if the rest of the truck were pretty superb.
 

Wrench

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What that guy said.

Motors are a dime a dozen but without knowing what your getting into there could be several other issues.
I'm seeing a money pit.

I've got a k1500 for sale. It will get you home.
I'm in Ontario PM if you want a better project.
 

454cid

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You're TX, so non-rusty trucks should be everywhere, right? In Michigan, I'd say go for it, but in TX?
 

Gramps

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If the rest of the truck is in good shape, I’d say go for it. Worst case you spend $500 for a junk yard engine and assorted accompanying tune up parts/fluids and end up with a clean good running truck.

Offer the seller a little less...I’m betting he knows the headgasket is gone or worse and is probably starting higher to “settle” on the amount they really want. I’d wave $5-600 in CASH in front of them and see if they bite.
 

evilunclegrimace

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Water-in-oil
Best case: Failed PCV system.

Coolant-in-oil:
Best Case: Intake gasket failure.
Worst Case: Cracked block.

Better find out FOR SURE if they mean "coolant in the oil".

I wouldn't pay $800 for a two wheel drive '89 with a potentially popped engine. I might pay $800 for a 4WD '89 with a popped engine, but only if the rest of the truck were pretty superb.

I would buy a truck with a bad engine for that price, Especially if it had a title. A bed in my neck of the woods goes for 5-6 hundred, a complete front clip from $400 and up, a hood is 50 bucks and a complete cab with a title is worth the $800 (IMHO). Plus there is the rest of the chassis and drive train.

Body work(rust repair) ends up costing more than driveline work most of the time due to the fact that it is never done 100% correctly, that is you can even find a shop that will do the work to begin with.

I just found a C1500 in Tennessee with a 4.3 with a severe rod knock for $700 (plus) $300 to run from Erie, PA to Blountville Tn. and back. The cab will go on my '90 K1500 and I can part the rest of it out and get back more than 50% of my total cost. I guess that it all depends on your location and your needs,:waytogo:
 

Tweakergeeker

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Could be anything. Coolant slot in head broke or you something isnt bolted down tight enough or the engine blew. I wouldn't buy it if he doesnt say how it happened. When you change head gaskets sometimes you get coolant in your block and fills the bore up.
 

Supercharged111

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If the engine is junk, that takes a test drive off the table which would give you an idea of all the other **** that's wrong with it.
 

evilunclegrimace

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Could be anything. Coolant slot in head broke or you something isnt bolted down tight enough or the engine blew. I wouldn't buy it if he doesnt say how it happened. When you change head gaskets sometimes you get coolant in your block and fills the bore up.

Would you care to explain how the cylinders are going to fill with coolant AFTER you change the head gaskets?
 
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