wanted: 95 suburban 5.7 factory exhaust y-pipe

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Nad_Yvalhosert

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This is the one I used on my '95. Stainless will not rot away in the salty winters here in New Yuck state, though it's price went up 50 bucks since I bought it. It's a direct fit for manifolds, fit perfectly on my shorty headers too. I ended using a Stainless band clamp instead of the crush clamp.
 

eran tomer

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I prefer the ol’ iron, and the extra connection is a recipe for leaks. It got also some bad reviews on Summit. You can get a one piece Walker pipe for third the price.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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I prefer the ol’ iron, and the extra connection is a recipe for leaks. It got also some bad reviews on Summit. You can get a one piece Walker pipe for third the price.
GM used a stainless material in their OE pipes. Why? Because it lasts dramatically long. Walker uses the worst material for exhaust: thin wall aluminized mild steel. It rots from the inside out. The Walker pipe WILL rot out in 2 years. The stainless will be in great shape 12 years from now.
Spend your hard earned money where it really matters. On the right part for the right reason.
The "extra connection" comes in really handy for potential future transmission repair. If you don't like it, weld it.
 

eran tomer

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GM used a stainless material in their OE pipes. Why? Because it lasts dramatically long. Walker uses the worst material for exhaust: thin wall aluminized mild steel. It rots from the inside out. The Walker pipe WILL rot out in 2 years. The stainless will be in great shape 12 years from now.
Spend your hard earned money where it really matters. On the right part for the right reason.
The "extra connection" comes in really handy for potential future transmission repair. If you don't like it, weld it.
didn't you have to trim the flange holes to fit?
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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didn't you have to trim the flange holes to fit?
No, I used a set of stainless shorty headers. The solid bell flanges eliminated the graphite gaskets and had slightly overside holes in the header for the hardware to attach the head pipe.
Meaning the y-pipe to header is able to be comformed to the header, and the bolts aren't rigid until tight.
I didn't use the OE spring bolts, instead I got stainless grade 5 bolts with serrated fasteners (nuts without lock washers) that haven't loosened in the 6k miles since installation.
Now, I wrote the words oversize holes above:
Oversize meaning 10mm holes in the header and in the 3-bolt pipe flanges.
Oversize because I used very much more readily available 3/8" hardware. 3/8" being 9.5mm, that gave me the wiggle room for pipe alignment.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I used the same JBL "Y" pipe on mine too. I put them on ~4 years ago with no issues. Where the left side pipe goes into the branch of the Y is no issue, the engine holds them together, you can't slide them off unless you unbolt at least one side from the manifold/header.
 

wb292

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I have this one from my 1991. It doesn’t have the 02 bung mine is on the exhaust manifold.
 

newmexguy

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Might be able to source, a lot of the TBI trucks have arrived @ west side El Paso yard I frequent. Most of these trucks have had their Catalytic converters either removed in the past, or cut off by yard before placement. If cut off by yard, they usually ruin the tail end of the Y pipe in the process. Dave S southern NM
 
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