Want to build a 496 Stroker, looking for guidance

Discussion in '96+ Vortec Performance + Computer Swaps' started by techweenie, May 1, 2014.

  1. Jrgunn5150

    Jrgunn5150 Enjoying tomorrow's success today

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    Really? That sucks
     
  2. SmittySS

    SmittySS I'm Awesome

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    I'm here to resurrect this old thread!
    Techweenie, did you have success with your 496 build?

    I recently purchased a 1997 K2500 Suburban 7.4L out of Arizona. I think I got it for a very good price, not many people were interested in it because it has a severe knock (may be close to seizing).
    I plan on pulling the engine out and rebuilding it. It's going to need a crank... so why not a stroker!?
    I've done a little research, checked out some prices on stroker rotating assembly kits and looked at some ComCams options.
    It would be great to hear from anyone on the forum who have done this build on their trucks.
    My end goal with my Suburban is a nice clean family touring vehicle that will not hesitate to take on the challenges I present to it; towing, pulling, ect.
    I currently have a 1996 K2500 Suburban 7.4L that I drive daily and using for towing various things on a regular basis. This past spring we towed a 1947 Willy's to San Diego, CA, picked upa 1973 Dodge Dart and towed it back here to Monroe, MI! I'm very happy with the truck, I think that I have been extremely blessed with it. But it's rusty. This is the only reason the 1997 will be the focus of my rebuilding...

    It would be great to hear some input, especially from those who might be able to point me in the right direction on a few things... obstacles perhaps I can avoid.
    Should I post my progression with the build on this thread, or start my own?

    Look forward to hearing from you.
    Smitty
    20171211_120710.jpg
     
  3. Christian Steffen

    Christian Steffen I'm Awesome

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    I would start your own thread.

    As long as you're aware of the cost that you'll run up, there aren't any major obstacles. Buying a good rotating assembly gets expensive. Which ones were you looking at? I vote for forged pistons if you're going to tow a lot, but maybe its not necessary.

    Here are the ones I used.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Mahle/644/BBC270280F03/10002/-1

    I can't remember exactly, but I think I ran eagle forged I beam rods. And I used a scat crank.

    Cam swap gets expensive because you need to convert to adjustable rockers, so keep that in mind, but it is worth doing.

    Have you thought about what you'll do for tuning? It would be best to have it tuned by someone local to you. Have you looked into the 0411 swap? You might need/want to if you haven't yet.

    You might want to consider bigger injectors too.

    I'm sure there are things I'm missing here. Awesome looking burb, I'm jealous.
     
  4. SmittySS

    SmittySS I'm Awesome

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    Thanks for the feed back!
    As soon as I get the engine out of the Suburban, I'll start a new thread and post up some pics along the way.

    As of right now, I'm leaning toward going with a 496 build with a Scat crank, the 6.385 rod, and Icon forged pistons. They have a 12cc dome. I want to end up with around 9.5-9.8:1 compression.
    We'll see after I get the engine torn down what the deck and heads look like... who knows what I'll be shopping for then!

    Thanks also for the 0411 swap suggestion. I had not even thought about it, but since I will be needing a tune, I'll likely do the swap. I may just look for someone locally when the time comes for tuning the PCM. I have a little experience tuning on my LT1's, but not sure what all I'd have to buy to tune this project.

    Thanks again!
    Smitty
     
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  5. Christian Steffen

    Christian Steffen I'm Awesome

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    If you're running stock heads I wouldn't go with any more of a dome than that. The pistons I'm running are a slight dish, and according to my numbers I'm around a 9.6:1 cr. If I drop to 87 octane I get a fair amount of KR in areas that I never usually see it, granted I'm running quite a bit of timing too.

    To tune, you need a suite such as efi live or hp tuners. But you have some time to think about that.
     
  6. nathan wegner

    nathan wegner Newbie

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    Link to 454 build threads? I'm about to build my first big block. Tow/haul rig in Alaska. I've been reading and stacking up some parts for some time now but I have two gmt400's to build, 97 K3500 CC flat bed 7.4 4l80e dually 4x4 4.10's g80 camper special and a 98 three door ext cab 1500 with weird rpo's like someone ordered this thing as heavy duty as you can with a half ton, Z71 package with the camper and trailering package, it has what I believe to be a 6" bds lift on 35" cooper stt's. Anyways so on the big block dually I need to haul crew, a boat, gear and big insulated ice totes full of thousands of lbs of salmon on slush ice for a commercial fishing operation in Bristol Bay. It's going to be a tough life on a soft, sandy, salty beach.. And it already went through a tide completely submerged when the front diff grenaded on a female who took it without my knowledge or permission attempting to pull her cousin out when the tide was coming in fast and just a few yards away. By the time I noticed it was pretty much too late to do anything about it seeing as how I had no other vehicle and things just happen to all work against me when there was no time to f*** around. I mean I didn't even have a shovel in my truck at the time because my brother has taken it (also without my knowledge or permission) to dig a new outhouse shitter hole.. And my rigs usually have a winch, lines, snatch blocks, high lifts, come a longs, anchors to winch when there's nothing but beach tundra or ice and snow, winter time the real serious custom chains from Norway get busted out, the chainsaw and you always need the survival essentials like all the backpacking gear with the little cook stove that runs on 87 pump or white gas to fire up the mountain house Italian pepper steak. So before she went under she needed to have the intake removed to fix the leaking gasket, as well as the fuel pressure regulator so I had ordered up some injectors and the full fel pro permadry gasket set along with the rest of the high millage tune up stuff. So now it makes sense to tear it down and build it up instead of tearing it part way down to get it going only to have to tear it down again next season.. I just had rewired half the Damn truck last winter, the entire interior was removed and I had made a new headlight harness and did the big 3.. really the big 4. The 8 hi mod with switchbacks and light bars pointing 360 degrees, 10" touchscreen with infinity kappas all around ran by a 1200 watt 4 channel pioneer amp, another 2400 watt monoblock pioneer pushing 3 12's wired up parallel at 1.33 ohms with a 20 farad capacitor helping out the main battery. It already has true dual 3" all the way back with a flow master dual in dual out but I'd like to get some long tube headers and probably run all new 3 or 3 1/2" stainless dual with no cats, I have two 0411 pcm's waiting to be flashed and tuned for both trucks. I have a matching set of Dana 60's from a 78 ford F250 with the high pinion reverse cut 4.10's (got the whole truck for free with the 98 that was also given to me for free by the chick who swamped my dually, who just so happens to be my girlfriend now haha!) so if I could get some guidance on a pretty decent well rounded and reliable set up to make build a little torque and build a lot more HP that's what I'm going for, cam, snorkel intake done with 4" alum, exhaust on a fresh reseal rering or maybe just go ahead and stroke it and tune it. It's getting dual batteries to run lights, stereo vhf and cb, winch possibly heated leather captains and heated power tow mirrors. SAS with maybe air lockers and build custom bumpers and sliders. I've seen sweet rear bumpers that also were airtanks to run air tools off of. I've been having a hard time finding stuff for the big block, the small block it's almost as though there's too much in the aftermarket department.. like headers for the big block and a good inline fuel pump set up with an adjustable pressure regulator since I'll be able to dial it in with a tune (think I need to research a bit more to decide on what software to invest in). any and all guidance, advice links etc would be much appreciated.
     
  7. RichLo

    RichLo I'm Awesome

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    :wtf2:

    Epic revival of a dead thread I guess. My head hurts now though.
     
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  8. Christian Steffen

    Christian Steffen I'm Awesome

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    This is way too much to read. Break it up into bullet points, and skip most of the banter, get to the point of what you're trying to do. From what I did manage to comprehend out of that you asked for more of a hp gain than torque, probably the wrong idea for a truck unless you're racing.
     
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  9. nathan wegner

    nathan wegner Newbie

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    Yeah sorry about the nutcase post. So stock rating for my truck is something like 280 or 290 HP I believe and 450 lbs of torque? Somewhere around there I think, so yeah I'd like to build some HP. 450 lbs of torque on a stock rig is nice, but if I could be at 400 horse and 500 ft. Lbs. I'd be happy. If getting to 400 horse means I end up with 600 lbs I won't be sad. I was thinking the other day that this could be an awesome plow truck/wrecker in the fishing off season. I might look that.
     
  10. L31MaxExpress

    L31MaxExpress I'm Awesome

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    290/410 is the factory L29 454 power rating.

    I put a big block in my 1999 Tahoe. 8.1L from a fullsize van. Cammed it with the Mercruiser 496 HO cam, added headers, dual 3" to single 4" exhaust and tuned it. That setup is good for 450 HP and about 550 TQ. Aftermarket is limited for an 8.1 but they are pretty strong even in stock form especially if you open them up with headers and tuning.
     

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