Wandering down the road

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cpapeter

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In my quest to get this low mileage burb back to good running condition, I've finally got around to new tires and an alignment. I've already had most of the front suspension rubber replaced, along with the shocks and some other front end bits and pieces. With good tires and a fresh alignment, the truck still doesn't have a very confident on-center feel. It's constantly drifting to one side or the other. It just doesn't want to go straight.

I watched the mechanic do the alignment and could pretty easily see the screen on the Hunter alignment rack. He definitely got the toe in to spec. But I didn't see him adjust the caster or camber. And both were showing red on the screen - which means I don't think they were within spec. I know that caster and camber angles are not easily adjustable on many cars and light trucks. Is that true for these trucks as well?

Any suggestions here? Do these trucks have a tendency to this wandering problem? Do I need a better alignment job? Are there known wear points in the steering gear?

I'd appreciate any thoughts or ideas.
 

Hipster

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It depends on if the knockouts have been removed from the frame. Then the alignment is fully adjustable.

And ask for a copy of the print out...always

Too little caster and it won't like to return to center and wander. Find an alignment shop/guy that is going to do the proper job.
 

cpapeter

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Also you really need to check the rag joint if you have any play in the steering.
Thanks for the heads up on that joint. A minor amount of googling helped me figure out that the rag joint is the connection between the steering column and the steering box. And now having seen a couple of bad ones in YouTube videos, I see the potential problem. For those who haven't seen that joint, it's a flexible disc of ... well ... something. And it can wear out and get too flexible, leading to play in the steering. When that happens, it's about as useful as a limp rag. And that's part of what I've got. When going straight (or straight-ish), I turn the wheel a smidge and nothing happens. I turn a smidge more and nothing happens. Another smidge and we're off to the other side of the lane. Then it's a smidge back toward the other side and repeat the process. I very much want to get some eyes on that joint. Unfortunately, that will have to wait until Sunday or Monday.

The whole thing reminds me of driving my dad's MG TC. Those always have some play in the steering box. You sort of herd them down the road. Of course, being about 5 feet wide, you've got plenty of room to wander from side to side in a TC. Not so much in a full size truck. I'll report back when I get a chance to look at it.
 

cpapeter

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And ask for a copy of the print out...always

The mechanic actually gave me a print out without my asking, which I thought was pretty customer-focused of them. I didn't look at it right away. Once I did a couple of hours later, it was clear that what he gave me was the specs for the alignment and not my actual figures.

Too little caster and it won't like to return to center and wander. Find an alignment shop/guy that is going to do the proper job.

That may be what I need to do. This was just a generic tire shop that did alignments. Way too many of those think an alignment is only dealing with the toe in. That's OK, but it's not always enough.
 

offroadtahoe

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is it a 98? like in your signature? disable the evo sensor,i unplug the pigtail from the ps pump,that with a flaming river u joint to replace the rag joint helped mine alot,also there is a blob joint under the dash that you can replace with a u joint style i got from a 96+2wd gmc to put on my 2000 4x4 gmt400 chevy tahoe,this helped tons as well
 

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Erik the Awful

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Way too many of those think an alignment is only dealing with the toe in. That's OK, but it's not always enough.
Nobody teaches how to align caster and camber anymore. Without caster/camber plates, most Macpherson strut vehicles aren't adjustable. I understood the theory on caster and camber alignment, but none of my mentors ever showed me how. "If the caster or camber aren't in spec, the car's been wrecked and there's nothing you can do about it. Toe and go."
 

cpapeter

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is it a 98? like in your signature? disable the evo sensor,i unplug the pigtail from the ps pump,that with a flaming river u joint to replace the rag joint helped mine alot,also there is a blob joint under the dash that you can replace with a u joint style i got from a 96+2wd gmc to put on my 2000 4x4 gmt400 chevy tahoe,this helped tons as well
I’ve been looking around a bit and have seen a number of people switching to a u joint. I’m not quite sure why there’s a rubber joint there. Looks to me like GM has been using them for decades. My first thought was that it is designed to fail in a wreck to keep the steering column from impaling the driver.
 
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