Very rough ride

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_nickjoseph

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1997 k1500 5.7. When driving on Norma flat roads my ride is still rough and bumpy. My keys are cranked a little but just enough to level the truck and I changed all the front suspension except cv axles and hubs. What could be causing all this vibration and rough riding. I’ve also got new rims and tires and it still does this
 

454cid

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My truck is rougher than I think it used to be at highway speeds. I've wondered if maybe I've got an issue in the rear suspension like frozen or too stiff shackles. I can see my bed bounce in my mirrors.

What kind of air pressure are you running, and what load range tires? Mine are a load index of 116/120, which is about an E equivalent. I don't expect them to be great riding, but better than what I'm getting.
 

Hipster

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New shocks in the front but not sure what kind

Not long ago you were asking if you should cut the bumpstops off the truck. Have you de-cranked it since then? Suspension action is comprised of extension and compression. When you crank it you increase the preload and remove the compression aspect. If it's at or near the droop stop you have lost the extension aspect. Basically you've removed most of the travel out of the suspension and you get the rough ride because the suspension is no longer working. Longer a-arms might give some extension but they're not going to do anything for the increased pre-load and lack of compression. Neither will a different shock.

The crank the T-bars thing has been beat to death for thirty some odd years and the outcome is always the same. Deal with the ride and parts wear, de-crank it for a better ride and parts longevity, a body lift and return the T-bars near a stockish setting, or get a proper lift kit. It is never going to ride right with an inch or so of suspension travel.
 
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Hutchinson

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I must agree with Hipster,.... you gotta be in that sweet spot of suspension travel, from the frame out (near stock), to get best ride,..... whether your lowering it, or lifting it.

Simply adjusting torsion bars will impact both ways (in ride quality).

Set your truck on flat pavement/ concrete,.....then measure your front and rear wheel wells at top dead center. You’ll need a small level and tape measure. Let me know what the measurements are all the way around, and I’ll compare to mine.

Another things, as these trucks age, the torsion bars weaken/sag down,.... and people keep cranking them up little-by-little,....bars/f ride get stiffer and stiffer. Maybe that’s the deal? You owned this truck long? Previous owner do any cranking (like these younger cats do nowadays,...front end jacked way up, rear dropped down,.... I think they call it bulldoggin down here in Florida).

If you have new shocks, bout the only thing you got left is torsion bars. As far as vibration, recheck torque on all your front suspension bolts, and road force balance your tires again.
 

Hutchinson

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When I replaced my torsion bars, I went with Sway-Away racing bars,.... they’re stiffer than stock/ ride’s a hair bit rougher (which I knew they would),....but combining the bars with urethane bushings all the way around, I can hit a sharp corner @ 50 and truck stays relatively flat, and sticks to the ground. Surprises some people, how fast the truck will take a corner, without feeling unsafe.
 

454cid

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Another things, as these trucks age, the torsion bars weaken/sag down,.... and people keep cranking them up little-by-little,....bars/f ride get stiffer and stiffer. Maybe that’s the deal? .

I believe torsion bars would have to be progressive for that to be accurate.... are they progressive, or linear? I've always assumed linear.
 
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