Used, Reman, Crate, or LS???

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stutaeng

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I do. :biggrin:

Unfortunately the LQ4 in my dad's '06 3500 has developed a very strange intermittent noise that we can't seem to pinpoint. I was just doing some research comparing used prices to new. I offered him the one in my garage but he'd prefer something with a warranty, and a GM reman honestly isn't much more expensive than a junkyard engine at this point. He's considering a brand new GM crate LQ4, but that's close to $5K not including the $2K core charge.

I've been trying to talk him into rebuilding what he has and letting me buy HPTuners and mess with the tune for him, but unfortunately he doesn't seem into it... yet...
Oh, I see. Hopefully it's not a major thing... His LQ4 is in a 3500, right?

I just purchased HPtuners for that project "Chebby," but I need to wrap up that tranny rebuild, before I can mess with that, LOL. The driveway engineer has a good intro HPTuners video BTW....
 

df2x4

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Oh, I see. Hopefully it's not a major thing... His LQ4 is in a 3500, right?

Yup, '06 3500 4WD. Original LQ4/80E, 275K miles.

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It's definitely something internal, and it fluctuates with engine speed. Seems to only pop up after doing some highway cruising at higher RPM and then slowing back down to idle for a few minutes. Sometimes won't do it at all. No CEL, loss of power or other weird behavior. Tried a BG oil system treatment/cleaner but no change. We're sending off an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis in the near future, if that comes back with anything weird we'll go from there. I'm suspecting a possible lifter issue but I'm also a big dummy.

I saw you posted that you bought HPTuners, that's awesome! I may have some questions for you in the future.
 

df2x4

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GoToGuy

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I really like the 383 crate engine. Not tge hot one, the vortec replacement upgrade with 1 or 2 year warranty.
 

b454rat

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You need to find the private junkyards. Ones not connected like car-part is. They gouge you with prices. I've gotten many motors from a local guy dirt cheap. P-pump cummins for $500, 427TD for $500, 8.1 with Allison for $750, Vortec 5.7 for $350 with 138k, 4L60 for $250 and a 4L80 for $250. Bought a Vortec 5.7 from a buddy with documented 98k for $350, and thats what he paid at another local yard. Getting the motor rebuilt isn't that terrible either. Again has to do with location. I have a 400 block ready to go. I can get the short block together for about a grand. The block is done, so not included in the price. But figure $500 or so to get it done. Many shops will have blocks ready to go. I was gonna do the LS thing, but it's the nickel n dime stuff that makes it expensive, and the wiring can be tricky.
 

Jesse_Wenting

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I mean that machine shops always claim that they clean the dirt, rust, and metal chips out of the parts they machine. They'll maybe even charge you for that "service". And if you don't use HOT water, soap/detergent, white lint-free towels/rags, and an oil-gallery brush to verify EVERY FOOKIN' OIL PASSAGE in the block, and the cylinder bores, the main saddles, the oil drillings in the crank, the hollow pushrods, the spurt hole in the rocker arms...there's particles left behind by the machine shop (or by normal engine wear on other used parts) that will gouge oiled parts once the engine fires and runs and has oil flow.

Sludge in the lifter valley may get wet with oil...but sludge in the lifter valley isn't in the oil pan to be picked-up by the pump and circulated against close-tolerance, finely-machined parts.

The parts--including the "new" parts you buy--pistons, cam, timing set, etc. also need to be cleaned in hot, soapy water. They may have an oily film on them to prevent rust; the oil picks up dust at the manufacturer, or in your shop.

And for those of us that re-use hydraulic lifters, a hydraulic lifter has a decent-sized oil inlet hole--but microscopic clearance for the oil to get back out. Therefore, hydraulic lifters are like 16 tiny oil filters--dirt and sludge get in, but can't get back out. Every re-used lifter has to come apart ONE AT A TIME for cleaning and inspection. DO NOT mix the plunger from one lifter body into a different lifter body. Keep all lifter parts together on the same lifter.

You cannot trust the oil filter to "catch" the debris before it circulates, because the debris is already in the oil passages.

There's likely debris in the coolant passages, too--but nothing in the cooling system has close tolerances like the oiled parts. And the water pump bearings are sealed.

My favorite machine shop left this in my boat 454 when they machined it. I've known the owner since high-school. He's a good guy. But I have learned to check EVERYTHING he does, especially if what his shop does was actually performed by his part-time help.

Passage between main saddle, and cam bearings after machining and cam bearing installation, once I stroked a brush through the oil passage. I bought my own cam-bearing installation tool, I don't let the machine shop do that any more. I don't let them install any oil gallery or cooling system plugs, either. I want all those passages open so that "I" can clean them to my standards.
Maybe it's just my OCD but everything you said there seems like common sense to me, I actually do have a question or two though.

Every re-used lifter has to come apart ONE AT A TIME for cleaning and inspection
Will throughly cleaning "sticky" hydraulic lifters loosen them up, or will the spring be worn out?

Dreck hiding behind oil gallery plugs on the side of the block. The plugs seal the drilling that connects the main oil gallery to the main bearings
What kind of socket do I need to remove these?? Been trying to figure this one out for a while


All in all thanks for further expanding. Kinda baffling how careless some people can apparently be lol. I'm slowly gathering parts to rebuild a 350 in an uninsulated shed so cleanliness is a major consideration I've been taking as I plan everything out. Even after taking off the heads to inspect the cylinders, I put the head gaskets back and snugged the heads back down to try and keep moisture out
 
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