Urgent help, truck has no power at ignition

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Stumpy

Heavy Chevy
Joined
Jun 17, 2019
Messages
1,355
Reaction score
3,739
Location
SC
You have side post? I hate those, switched to top post, and bought some nice $20 cable ends. I feel that's a much better connection.

I was fortunate that the battery in mine had both terminals, so it was an easy switch. I did have to buy a battery recently though, and got one without the side terminals. Still ran me $195 with the exchange.
 

someotherguy

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
9,979
Reaction score
14,666
Location
Houston TX
We had this issue with the Burb, and maybe the other 99 Burb too. What Dad did is trim some of the vinyl off the terminals so they'll stack better, and put a stainless steel bolt and a jam nut on it. Also on the negative cable. I guess I need to do this on this truck too....to quote Popeye,"this is embarrassking"
Yep, it's the old stacked positive cables with the lead spacer in-between, you can't see the corrosion build up in there, and they do get loose as the spacer gets mushed. Cutting the covering off so you can clean up the ends, throw the spacer out, and replace bolt with one of the appropriate length so that it doesn't bottom out in the battery terminal.

Richard
 

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
9,798
Reaction score
17,887
Location
Houston, Texas
Yep, it's the old stacked positive cables with the lead spacer in-between, you can't see the corrosion build up in there, and they do get loose as the spacer gets mushed. Cutting the covering off so you can clean up the ends, throw the spacer out, and replace bolt with one of the appropriate length so that it doesn't bottom out in the battery terminal.

Richard
Yeah I will be playing with this over the weekend, and also with the blower motor. I think the lead spacer was a good idea, as long as it didn't get tossed when the battery was replaced the first time.
 

RichLo

E I E I O
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
3,643
Reaction score
5,628
Location
Wisconsin
My Dually is having similar problems and has the same stacked pos side terminal. My battery tests great with my load tester on the top terminals but it has nothing when cranking off just the battery. It just clicks like the batt is dead.

But If I hook a jump starter up to the top terminals it'll crank over and fire up just fine without touching the side terminal cables. Its done this with other batteries and those have fired up other trucks just fine with no problems.

Its gotten so bad that I need to jump it every time I fire it up, even if I drive it an hour then shut it off for 3 mins to fill up. IDK why I can boost the top terminals and that transfers to the side terminals without touching the cables.
 

Pinger

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Messages
3,038
Reaction score
5,995
Location
Scotland.
Don't neglect battery terminal connections - for two reasons.
One, resistance there can cause so much heat during cranking the terminal melts. Ask me how I know.
Second, if the vehicle loses contact with the battery (its electrical 'sink') with the engine running, every bulb and circuit that is running can see significant overvoltage - enough to pop every bulb. Ask me how I know.
 

Erik the Awful

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2019
Messages
7,813
Reaction score
16,055
Location
Choctaw, OK
There are two kinds of GMT400 owners: those who've never had this happen and argue that side posts are just fine, and those who've had this happen more than once and went top post. I won't even argue with side post proponents - their time will come. Just know that top post is the option if you never want this problem again.
 

0xDEADBEEF

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
2,586
Reaction score
6,437
Location
127.0.0.1
There are two kinds of GMT400 owners: those who've never had this happen and argue that side posts are just fine, and those who've had this happen more than once and went top post. I won't even argue with side post proponents - their time will come. Just know that top post is the option if you never want this problem again.

I've had this happen at least twice with top post batteries. We used to have a Lexus GX470 and about every 3 years it would do this because of corrosion. I kept a battery terminal cleaner in the glove box.

Our LX470 which is basically the same under the hood has never done it. That always puzzled me.
 

letitsnow

I'm Awesome
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
1,684
Reaction score
2,462
Location
MN
I tighten and loosen my side post connections at each oil change - Gently with a 5/16 wrench. Haven't had trouble yet.

Seems weird but I have had much more trouble with top mount connections than side posts over the years on different vehicles.
 

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
9,798
Reaction score
17,887
Location
Houston, Texas
I tighten and loosen my side post connections at each oil change - Gently with a 5/16 wrench. Haven't had trouble yet.

Seems weird but I have had much more trouble with top mount connections than side posts over the years on different vehicles.
The big reason I don't want to change to top posts, is since the 400s use those odd cables, I would have to chop the factory sealed cable ends off. That would be inviting too much corrosion....
I have a GearWrench 5/16" combo that I use for the side terminal bolts, it stays in the door of the Burb (except for now when Burb is in the shop). Now that I know that the cables need to be looked at more closely, I think I'll put the bolts in them like on the Burb.
 
Top