Upper corner lights

[kennythewelder]

I cut mine more like this. I driller a round hole in back of the top corner light. That way, there is an over lap of plastic for support, and something for the epoxy to adhere to.

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[Eveready]

This is slick. I am going to do this too. I always wondered why GM didnt make both of em light up..

Two words: "cheap bas****s" They could leave off the other light and save maybe 30 cents per truck in materials. Multiply that by the production run of that style and you are giving somebody a bonus for not lighting that other lens.

 

[95C1500]

I did it the same way @kennythewelder Same bulbs/pigtails as the lowers too

 

[Moparmat2000]

Two words: "cheap bas****s" They could leave off the other light and save maybe 30 cents per truck in materials. Multiply that by the production run of that style and you are giving somebody a bonus for not lighting that other lens.

Yep bean counters at work. Passes DOT with only one lit, why light the other one. 99% of the people buying it new could care less.

 

[Moparmat2000]

Looking at the previous pix, i was thinking this idea may work well, and is how i will be approaching this when i do mine. Cut out the hole in the reflector another member marked in black, but small enough that the marking in red will overlap. Cut out the part marked in red. Surface plate sand the part cut out in red to make it flat, then fit the pieces together, and using a small amount of MEK on a brush, dab it on the edges between the 2 parts. It will suck into the joint with capillary action and melt the plastic together.

I do this all the time with older mopar ABS plastics that cannot be inexpensively replaced. It melts the plastic then solidifies both pieces into one piece. Stronger than any glue. Do not use a lot of MEK. Just enough to flow into the joint, because it will damage the reflector part if it gets on there. If you dont have access to MEK, you can use plastiweld solvent ahhesive. Does about the same thing. I think this would make a cleaner install. Just use extreme caution. MEK and plastiweld will melt the plastic they touch. Even if you grab a rag and wipe it away fast, the damage is done.

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[Moparmat2000]

Heres a pair of original 69 barracuda ABS grille plastics. These are $750 plus or minus for a pair of repops that fit like ****, i used MEK and clamps to reglue a pair of broken 48 year old otiginals back together for my kids car. A bit of filler primer, some wet sanding and they are ready for paint. MEK glue joint is as strong as original plastic. It does not harden up as fast as super glue, however unlike super glue the pieces are melted back together with their original plastic. On your lenses if doing this with MEK, let it set up for a day or so before mounting back in the grille. The MEK trick will not work on soft plastics like your A pillar mouldings, kick panels, sill plates etc.

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[kennythewelder]

Heres a pair of original 69 barracuda ABS grille plastics. These are $750 plus or minus for a pair of repops that fit like ****, i used MEK and clamps to reglue a pair of broken 48 year old otiginals back together for my kids car. A bit of filler primer, some wet sanding and they are ready for paint. MEK glue joint is as strong as original plastic. It does not harden up as fast as super glue, however unlike super glue the pieces are melted back together with their original plastic. On your lenses if doing this with MEK, let it set up for a day or so before mounting back in the grille. The MEK trick will not work on soft plastics like you A pillar mouldings, kick panels, sill plates etc.

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Intresting. I have seen some videos on plastic welding, but knew nothing about welding plastic with MEK. Makes sence though, I have seen MEK melt plastic before.

 

[Moparmat2000]

I have a little glass bottle of MEK in ny shop labelled up as solvent adhesive. This works super great. The bond joint has to be tight with very little to no gaps for the best results, and you have to be patient with the drying time before handling. Id recommend modding a set of these in advance of pulling the grille so when you do mod the grill its just a matter of drilling the grille shell, and soldering in the wires, then bolting it all together. I bought a new GM grille from my dealer about 2 weeks ago, and bought all aftermarket lenses from rock auto. They fit the grille very nicely and were dirt cheap. When i do the grille swap, i will be modding these new ones. I dont want to chop up my originals since i want to hang my original grille on the wall in the shop. Going to get a second pair and wiring pigtails out of the junky on my next visit. New reflectors were about $2 each from the rock TYC brand made in taiwan, so i dont mind modding them.

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[Eveready]

Since all of you guys are following this thread can anyone answer a closely related question? I have 93 truck and have accidentally picked up a 95 or so Grill. I hear they are different. How different are they and can it be made to work. I am converting from a W/T to composite as I upgrade the interior and rest of the truck. Can somebody tell me the difference in those grills?

 

[Moparmat2000]

Should bolt right up no problem w composite headllights. I got my composite lamps new complete with phillips bulbs already mounted in them for $24 each and change from rock auto. I think the 94 up grille looks better IMHO. You will need to wire for seperate sockets compared to your current sealed beam setup though.